Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For an R33, this is a pain in the arse, but it would be an awesome method as the alternator is always off when the car is off! Dang.

the factory wire on the alternator is directly run to the battery so even if car is off it still has power running backwards through it

the 33 must be diff to the 32 cause all i did was zip tie the wire to the top of the fuel line and followed it all the way to the engine bay, mounted a fuse holder to the strut tower and then across to the alternator, took about 1 hour for the hole job, you just need a set of ramps to back car onto.

although having the battery in the boot makes it alot easier and for the diff in voltage isn't really worth the effort, for me it was run wire to battery or move it 300mm over to alternator

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

excuse my ignorance, but wouldn't it be easier to use the negative as the trigger on the pump instead of the positive?

I'm Currently wiring in a external 044 with surge tank and manual priming button.

Fuel Pump Trigger on Pin 18 on the ECU of the RB25DET, is that a positive or a negative output?

Cheers.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 4 years later...
5 hours ago, Cali_GTR_R32 said:

Hey guys I jus bought a gtr r32 stock rb26dett I was lookin to do the 12v fuel pump mod but I cnt seem to open the pics can anymore help I'm a visual learner pics would be perfect 

thanks guys ?

just ground off the earth on your fuel pump for now... no need to get fancy until you start playing around with bigger pumps :)

  • 2 years later...
On 6/8/2010 at 9:25 PM, gumflapper said:

see if this diagram i made helps you understand it a bit better

post-44390-1275989100_thumb.jpg

link to other topic: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fu...html&st=220

will the factory power modulate the pump under idle wired this way? i assume that it does the factory pump.. so will it pulse the relay switches duty cycle to keep pump slower at idle?

54 minutes ago, boomtheroom said:

will the factory power modulate the pump under idle wired this way? i assume that it does the factory pump.. so will it pulse the relay switches duty cycle to keep pump slower at idle?

no, not at all. you cant PWM a relay, the factory control dropped the pump speed with a resistor, this will bypass that and be full speed all the time. 

5 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

no, not at all. you cant PWM a relay, the factory control dropped the pump speed with a resistor, this will bypass that and be full speed all the time. 

o can you buy w modulator to run the pump at half speed all the time if current fuel needs only require that amount?

15 hours ago, boomtheroom said:

o can you buy w modulator to run the pump at half speed all the time if current fuel needs only require that amount?

How many pumps do you have in your car? Honestly If you're running a single pump don't even worry about it.

 

  • 1 month later...

Hi everyone, first post! Just joined up from the UK ?

I have just completed hard wiring the fuel pump following this guide (was a massive help so thank you for that!!) 

Only part I am unsure of and can’t see here....

The earth wire you cut, the pump side goes to the chassis as instructed, but what about the harness side from the controller?? Do I need to ground this or leave it unconnected and cover it? 

Edited by ChrisDC90

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
    • You have a knack for photography my friend. It makes the 86 look like a complete bucket. The 34 went with you to Europe and back. It's special. (we all feel the same about our 'shitboxes' that every bystander seems to absolutely love)
×
×
  • Create New...