Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'm glad you asked!

Koni Red adjustable shocks and Pedders Red springs all round.

Run 205/55/r15 rubber.

Nolythane bushes.

Replace the open-wheel diff-centre with a clutching type from a WRX.

Replace the diff cradle and suspension arms with a 280zx rear end with disk brakes.

Pop some Hilux 4 spots on the front over ventilated disks.

All really straight forward stuff. Some of the guys I know have gone further, and are using 240z coil-overs for the front, and have converted to CV's. I also prefer to remove the power-steering, but each to their own.

  coupe72001 said:
Replace the open-wheel diff-centre with a clutching type from a WRX.

Pop some Hilux 4 spots on the front over ventilated disks.

is the "diff-centre with a clutching type from a WRX. " a long nose type, what type of axle attachment does it use ?

also with the "ventilated disks", did you use a 4-5mm space between the disc and the hub , to space it more toward the strut, what calipers , S12 or S13 ?

Nigel

The WRX LSD centre was purchased from ebay UK, and it bolted straight into the long-nose r180 diff in my skyline. (It was not the original r180 diff, it's the front r180 from the datsun 720 truck with a 4.75:1 ratio, either way they are the same dimesions and spline count). I had to retain some of the internal bits from my diff, so I could attach my driveshafts - the WRX's have a different axle arrangement. Jack MacNamurra Diffs in Moorabbin Vic did this conversion for about $180, and the LSD centre also cost about $180.

If I was going to run a monster engine, I would have to build up an r200 lsd with CV's and convert my hubs to suit them... much pricier than $350 though. Randy at the 1600 Factory in Bayswater would be the man to see about this.

The ventilated disk/caliper set up came from a smashed rally car I purchased complete, so I don't know exactly what it is! There isn't a spacer from what I recall though. Some of the kids with 1600's at NDSOC are using C210 struts, with Volvo calipers and a Magna/Verada ventilated disk. Ill try and get more specific information about that.

In response to Floody, it's true that I have had a big expensive bastard of a time breaking and rebreaking my white old-school skyline. However, the standard ones have never given me any big headaches, and if I had to start over with a modified one I think I could save myself a huge amount of grief and money now that I have a much better idea of what I am doing, which parts will interchange and who to ask to do certain work etc... It's not like the cars are technically incomprehensible, or were assembled in a communist backwater somewhere.

  floody said:
If you're sick of the GT-R breaking and costing money, you're barking up the wrong tree with vintage Skylines.

Yeah i was a bit worried about this, but i really cant see it being as bad as the r32 - since it will be stripped and built it shouldnt be too much of a drama...i hope :D

  mastadd said:
Nope fully Independent rear end, I know of one guy in i think qld who put a z31 or z32 rear end in, but he's spent heaps on his car, and it will be grouse,

Hey that's me, I've spent heaps on my K and I live in QLD. The vert has a Z32 rear cradle fitted to get the big R230 diff for burnouts, It would have come back to me today after getting the brake lines done and I would have been able to start it for the 1st time in 2.5 years but we needed a to get a special part to get the line locker fitted and working so it's still at the workshop. It should be back in a couple of days. Also Mastadd I can change my crossmember over and a RB26 will bolt right in, Just need a gearbox mount made up and tailshaft. I recall you weren't too impressed with my engine choice so I thought I'd mention that

For the record late model Falcons and Commondors have only just caught up to the the C110 in the Irs department, they have single swingarm irs and it works fine in them, meanwhile Nissan has gone soooo much further in irs tech that holden and ford will probably never catch up.

A C110 with new springs, shocks and bushes with big swaybar will handle as good if not better than most new cars, just look at some of the lap times people are getting in their Z's if you don't believe me.

  240k convertible said:
Hey that's me, I've spent heaps on my K and I live in QLD. The vert has a Z32 rear cradle fitted to get the big R230 diff for burnouts, It would have come back to me today after getting the brake lines done and I would have been able to start it for the 1st time in 2.5 years but we needed a to get a special part to get the line locker fitted and working so it's still at the workshop. It should be back in a couple of days. Also Mastadd I can change my crossmember over and a RB26 will bolt right in, Just need a gearbox mount made up and tailshaft. I recall you weren't too impressed with my engine choice so I thought I'd mention that

For the record late model Falcons and Commondors have only just caught up to the the C110 in the Irs department, they have single swingarm irs and it works fine in them, meanwhile Nissan has gone soooo much further in irs tech that holden and ford will probably never catch up.

A C110 with new springs, shocks and bushes with big swaybar will handle as good if not better than most new cars, just look at some of the lap times people are getting in their Z's if you don't believe me.

yeah i knew it was you, i wanted to save you the hard work of telling every one what you have had done, lol

v8 = great burnouts, and sound, so im just a crybaby cos your k is nearly done and mine are still months off

  N1GTR said:
Thought i had found one, but its a 4dr

At least its cheap

What's wrong with the 4 doors? Personaly I find them much better proportioned than the hideous 2 door. OK - with all the GTR guff the 2 doors look OK, but the 4 door gets my vote every time.

They look good in flares too :thumbsup:

going to have to agree with warps.

4 door, super low with flairs and wide wheels = sexytime

on that note,

never been a fan of old cars with new style large diam wheel, but damn...

cst hyper zero wheels look the goods

http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=w...600x4501fs6.jpg

Edited by works 510
  mastadd said:
5K!!! thats more than reasonable,! if i could get 5k for one of my crap ones i would be stoked!

It's called, "Keeping the Value Inflated".

On second thought, he doesn't have OCD (Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder) does he?

Or on third thought, 16 dogs each with their own kennel? Yuk!

Even if he does, it's a great looking car esp the coupe (as I used to have the 4 door 240K in 1977).

Tez

  mastadd said:
Good for parts??

Yeah guess so, its unreg etc

  warps said:
What's wrong with the 4 doors? Personaly I find them much better proportioned than the hideous 2 door. OK - with all the GTR guff the 2 doors look OK, but the 4 door gets my vote every time.

They look good in flares too :P

Yeah they look ok, but the thing is, i prefer 2 doors and would always regret spending all the time and money on a 4 door when i see a nice pic of a 2 door :D

  blk180 said:
Yer how cheap?

He wants offers. Id start at $500 pickup and go from there

  coupe72001 said:
Found this one. Wrong country, crazy price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-skyl...emZ160288768454

Also I forgot. If you want a c210 to handle you'll need a strut brace.

:P

Hows the price!

Thats cool im in NSW - too many doors though :P

I remember a 2door on ebay a while ago, i think it started at 900 and didnt sell. It was in bits but from memory it was all there. Anyone remember that one or know where it is now?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...