Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'm glad you asked!

Koni Red adjustable shocks and Pedders Red springs all round.

Run 205/55/r15 rubber.

Nolythane bushes.

Replace the open-wheel diff-centre with a clutching type from a WRX.

Replace the diff cradle and suspension arms with a 280zx rear end with disk brakes.

Pop some Hilux 4 spots on the front over ventilated disks.

All really straight forward stuff. Some of the guys I know have gone further, and are using 240z coil-overs for the front, and have converted to CV's. I also prefer to remove the power-steering, but each to their own.

Replace the open-wheel diff-centre with a clutching type from a WRX.

Pop some Hilux 4 spots on the front over ventilated disks.

is the "diff-centre with a clutching type from a WRX. " a long nose type, what type of axle attachment does it use ?

also with the "ventilated disks", did you use a 4-5mm space between the disc and the hub , to space it more toward the strut, what calipers , S12 or S13 ?

Nigel

The WRX LSD centre was purchased from ebay UK, and it bolted straight into the long-nose r180 diff in my skyline. (It was not the original r180 diff, it's the front r180 from the datsun 720 truck with a 4.75:1 ratio, either way they are the same dimesions and spline count). I had to retain some of the internal bits from my diff, so I could attach my driveshafts - the WRX's have a different axle arrangement. Jack MacNamurra Diffs in Moorabbin Vic did this conversion for about $180, and the LSD centre also cost about $180.

If I was going to run a monster engine, I would have to build up an r200 lsd with CV's and convert my hubs to suit them... much pricier than $350 though. Randy at the 1600 Factory in Bayswater would be the man to see about this.

The ventilated disk/caliper set up came from a smashed rally car I purchased complete, so I don't know exactly what it is! There isn't a spacer from what I recall though. Some of the kids with 1600's at NDSOC are using C210 struts, with Volvo calipers and a Magna/Verada ventilated disk. Ill try and get more specific information about that.

In response to Floody, it's true that I have had a big expensive bastard of a time breaking and rebreaking my white old-school skyline. However, the standard ones have never given me any big headaches, and if I had to start over with a modified one I think I could save myself a huge amount of grief and money now that I have a much better idea of what I am doing, which parts will interchange and who to ask to do certain work etc... It's not like the cars are technically incomprehensible, or were assembled in a communist backwater somewhere.

If you're sick of the GT-R breaking and costing money, you're barking up the wrong tree with vintage Skylines.

Yeah i was a bit worried about this, but i really cant see it being as bad as the r32 - since it will be stripped and built it shouldnt be too much of a drama...i hope :D

Nope fully Independent rear end, I know of one guy in i think qld who put a z31 or z32 rear end in, but he's spent heaps on his car, and it will be grouse,

Hey that's me, I've spent heaps on my K and I live in QLD. The vert has a Z32 rear cradle fitted to get the big R230 diff for burnouts, It would have come back to me today after getting the brake lines done and I would have been able to start it for the 1st time in 2.5 years but we needed a to get a special part to get the line locker fitted and working so it's still at the workshop. It should be back in a couple of days. Also Mastadd I can change my crossmember over and a RB26 will bolt right in, Just need a gearbox mount made up and tailshaft. I recall you weren't too impressed with my engine choice so I thought I'd mention that

For the record late model Falcons and Commondors have only just caught up to the the C110 in the Irs department, they have single swingarm irs and it works fine in them, meanwhile Nissan has gone soooo much further in irs tech that holden and ford will probably never catch up.

A C110 with new springs, shocks and bushes with big swaybar will handle as good if not better than most new cars, just look at some of the lap times people are getting in their Z's if you don't believe me.

Hey that's me, I've spent heaps on my K and I live in QLD. The vert has a Z32 rear cradle fitted to get the big R230 diff for burnouts, It would have come back to me today after getting the brake lines done and I would have been able to start it for the 1st time in 2.5 years but we needed a to get a special part to get the line locker fitted and working so it's still at the workshop. It should be back in a couple of days. Also Mastadd I can change my crossmember over and a RB26 will bolt right in, Just need a gearbox mount made up and tailshaft. I recall you weren't too impressed with my engine choice so I thought I'd mention that

For the record late model Falcons and Commondors have only just caught up to the the C110 in the Irs department, they have single swingarm irs and it works fine in them, meanwhile Nissan has gone soooo much further in irs tech that holden and ford will probably never catch up.

A C110 with new springs, shocks and bushes with big swaybar will handle as good if not better than most new cars, just look at some of the lap times people are getting in their Z's if you don't believe me.

yeah i knew it was you, i wanted to save you the hard work of telling every one what you have had done, lol

v8 = great burnouts, and sound, so im just a crybaby cos your k is nearly done and mine are still months off

Thought i had found one, but its a 4dr

At least its cheap

What's wrong with the 4 doors? Personaly I find them much better proportioned than the hideous 2 door. OK - with all the GTR guff the 2 doors look OK, but the 4 door gets my vote every time.

They look good in flares too :thumbsup:

going to have to agree with warps.

4 door, super low with flairs and wide wheels = sexytime

on that note,

never been a fan of old cars with new style large diam wheel, but damn...

cst hyper zero wheels look the goods

http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=w...600x4501fs6.jpg

Edited by works 510
5K!!! thats more than reasonable,! if i could get 5k for one of my crap ones i would be stoked!

It's called, "Keeping the Value Inflated".

On second thought, he doesn't have OCD (Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder) does he?

Or on third thought, 16 dogs each with their own kennel? Yuk!

Even if he does, it's a great looking car esp the coupe (as I used to have the 4 door 240K in 1977).

Tez

Good for parts??

Yeah guess so, its unreg etc

What's wrong with the 4 doors? Personaly I find them much better proportioned than the hideous 2 door. OK - with all the GTR guff the 2 doors look OK, but the 4 door gets my vote every time.

They look good in flares too :P

Yeah they look ok, but the thing is, i prefer 2 doors and would always regret spending all the time and money on a 4 door when i see a nice pic of a 2 door :D

Yer how cheap?

He wants offers. Id start at $500 pickup and go from there

Found this one. Wrong country, crazy price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-skyl...emZ160288768454

Also I forgot. If you want a c210 to handle you'll need a strut brace.

:P

Hows the price!

Thats cool im in NSW - too many doors though :P

I remember a 2door on ebay a while ago, i think it started at 900 and didnt sell. It was in bits but from memory it was all there. Anyone remember that one or know where it is now?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...