Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now with a few more ponies mr brakes are really letting me down, firstly because my rotors are shagged, they're being replaced with the dba 2 piece rotors. I'll be doing a bit of track work and was wondering what peoples thoughts are on brake pads? I'm using brembo calipers.

ultimates? are they up to a day at the track withstanding high temps?

green stuff? I have been told don't bother!

race brakes? have heard good things but no first hand experience.

pagids? hear nothing but good things, besided the price!

Cheers

Simmo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23525-gtr-pads-any-advice/
Share on other sites

What I do is buy pagids for track and ultimates for road. Pagids do not work well cold and its only a half hour job to change front pads. Im currently using Galfer which are a good cross.

For rotors I use Bradi (about half the price of DBA and half never had one crack)

It depend on the level of track work, heavy with decent speeds you will need a dedicated set for the track, light occasional you could get away with one set. Race brakes sell good stuff and is well priced and they could recomend you one of their many compounds.

It also depends on what circuit you are on. I find at a small and tight circuit (like wakefield) it's not so hard on brakes where a higher speed circuit (eastern creek) it's very demanding on brakes.

I had a set of Green stuff and lasted one session at EC. Racebrakes RB74 are a good pad as it's not as noisy as the comp 9's and last a few days at EC with driving in between. Comp 9's have very good bite but are very harsh on rotors.

Ultimate = ~ 80-380c

RB74 = ~ 0-500c

I've used 2 sets of Ultimates just for street driving and now using RB74's on the front and Comp 2's on the rear and even with a busted master cylinder I think they are still better than the Bendix Ultimates.

Speak to RaceBrakes would be my suggestion. You may even get a discount for mentioning SAU (as I did, around ~10%)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For fuelling the Haltechs have O2WB fuel controllers. Very useful for helping tuning VE and correcting for *small* mistakes. Of course if your injector/cam/trigger/sensor data is just wrong (or for a GTT which is not a GT) then you will get impossible reactions to things. I am sure you know this already but the reason people don't typically put haltechs (or any Aftermarket ECU) on GT's is because there's practically no real gains to be had - So this knowledge won't be commonplace.
    • Can someone tell me if the cracks seen in the rear sway bar bushings in these photo's is unacceptable from a roadworthy point of view?  
    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
×
×
  • Create New...