Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now with a few more ponies mr brakes are really letting me down, firstly because my rotors are shagged, they're being replaced with the dba 2 piece rotors. I'll be doing a bit of track work and was wondering what peoples thoughts are on brake pads? I'm using brembo calipers.

ultimates? are they up to a day at the track withstanding high temps?

green stuff? I have been told don't bother!

race brakes? have heard good things but no first hand experience.

pagids? hear nothing but good things, besided the price!

Cheers

Simmo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23525-gtr-pads-any-advice/
Share on other sites

What I do is buy pagids for track and ultimates for road. Pagids do not work well cold and its only a half hour job to change front pads. Im currently using Galfer which are a good cross.

For rotors I use Bradi (about half the price of DBA and half never had one crack)

It depend on the level of track work, heavy with decent speeds you will need a dedicated set for the track, light occasional you could get away with one set. Race brakes sell good stuff and is well priced and they could recomend you one of their many compounds.

It also depends on what circuit you are on. I find at a small and tight circuit (like wakefield) it's not so hard on brakes where a higher speed circuit (eastern creek) it's very demanding on brakes.

I had a set of Green stuff and lasted one session at EC. Racebrakes RB74 are a good pad as it's not as noisy as the comp 9's and last a few days at EC with driving in between. Comp 9's have very good bite but are very harsh on rotors.

Ultimate = ~ 80-380c

RB74 = ~ 0-500c

I've used 2 sets of Ultimates just for street driving and now using RB74's on the front and Comp 2's on the rear and even with a busted master cylinder I think they are still better than the Bendix Ultimates.

Speak to RaceBrakes would be my suggestion. You may even get a discount for mentioning SAU (as I did, around ~10%)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...