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Saturday Afternoon sprints are a good place to start. Its for road cars only and they'll group you in with other new drivers for your first event so there's no pressure. Has plenty of run-off too. Should find all you need to know here:

http://www.qldraceways.com.au/events/Satur...arvo_index.html

Or Google Rennen Motorsport - they have some driver training days at QR I believe. That would be a great way to get started and learn heaps about track driving.

Saturday Afternoon sprints are a good place to start. Its for road cars only and they'll group you in with other new drivers for your first event so there's no pressure. Has plenty of run-off too. Should find all you need to know here:

http://www.qldraceways.com.au/events/Satur...arvo_index.html

Or Google Rennen Motorsport - they have some driver training days at QR I believe. That would be a great way to get started and learn heaps about track driving.

oh good info

thanks heaps! im sure to check that out .......... does any one here go there? would be good to meet some fellow owners.

p.s do you own a 30?

www.timeattack.com.au

have a day this friday, they do beginner sessions also and you have much much more track time and space than the QR Saturday sprints...

Edited by wrxkilla

www.timeattack.com.au

have a day this friday, they do beginner sessions also and you have much much more track time and space than the QR Saturday sprints...

great responses!

well now i have a few choices:)

i cant wait to get back from holidays and have a run!

any set up tips for a mild run?

With the brake fluid consider something like Motul RBF 600 brake fluid (dot 4.1 but high boiling point), can be bought from bike shops for about $15/bottle (roughly)

Oh, track days often have a driver training session available that you can do...

With the brake fluid consider something like Motul RBF 600 brake fluid (dot 4.1 but high boiling point), can be bought from bike shops for about $15/bottle (roughly)

Oh, track days often have a driver training session available that you can do...

will i be able to use that dot 4.1 / 5 on the street?

cheers for all the helpfull tips so far fellas

yeah nothing wrong with using good fluid on the street, its not like race pads which don't work properly when cold.

the only thing to watch with high quality fluid is it absorbs moisture quicker, so you should change it every 12 months. But that really goes for all brake fluid anyway

yeah nothing wrong with using good fluid on the street, its not like race pads which don't work properly when cold.

the only thing to watch with high quality fluid is it absorbs moisture quicker, so you should change it every 12 months. But that really goes for all brake fluid anyway

cool ill get onto that then....

I have the discs that have the holes drilled into them on ive been told they are standard on my model 1990/1 gtr they are slow to warm up i have found :)

what pads will be a good trade off for mild street and a little bit of track?........

Ive just run a track day at waneroo here in perth in my gtr using Project Mu HC+ pads front and rear and they were awsome, work well on the street to. I did up to 7 fast laps at a time and no issues and a pro race car driver drove my car for 4 hot laps and no issues there either. Not the cheapest but well worth it

Ive just run a track day at waneroo here in perth in my gtr using Project Mu HC+ pads front and rear and they were awsome, work well on the street to. I did up to 7 fast laps at a time and no issues and a pro race car driver drove my car for 4 hot laps and no issues there either. Not the cheapest but well worth it

where can they be bought from mate?

JAson, PM Giant, he might be able to help you with MU pads. What kinda Skline you got, and how much power?

Also, Lakeside is on this Sunday, maybe you'd like to come join us out there for the last run before it's closed for renovations?

Edit: just saw you have a 32 GTR. Those original (assuming?) cross drilled rotors won't last long at a track day, you might be better served investing up front in a set of DBA 2500 rotors and pads of your choice, assuming it's not overly powerful, because then you'll really need to upgrade the whole shootin match.

Edited by Marlin
JAson, PM Giant, he might be able to help you with MU pads. What kinda Skline you got, and how much power?

Also, Lakeside is on this Sunday, maybe you'd like to come join us out there for the last run before it's closed for renovations?

Edit: just saw you have a 32 GTR. Those original (assuming?) cross drilled rotors won't last long at a track day, you might be better served investing up front in a set of DBA 2500 rotors and pads of your choice, assuming it's not overly powerful, because then you'll really need to upgrade the whole shootin match.

Hey there,

Thanks for the info Im sorry that i wont be able to make it to lakeside since im off to sydney for 2 weeks to see the family this friday

although i would like to meet up and have a chat with you chaps when i get back .

Its a 1990 32gtr

The engine and the whole car is stock and the only mod is the gear knob :happy:

Ill be getting a new set of discs asap DBA seem to be the go huh.

Ill be going for some coil over as well in a month im thinking some teins.

and a full ex system.

and that will be it for the time being...............unless i need some kind of special tyres? i currently have yokohama C drives?

they came with the car.......

again great input guys!

Edited by DAS KAMU

No sweat mate. QR is a bit "safer" anyway.

DBA are far from the best available, but are a reasonable rotor for your car's current level. Don't get cross drilled, just slotted ones. A cheap pad for your car's level is Bendix Ultimate. Some guys hate them, I've had them though and they're fine for what you need.

It would be prudent to start looking for some 2nd hand GTR Brembos as a minimum, brakes are something you can't really overdo.

Have a good talk to people before spending money on Japanese spec coil overs. The Tein's Fulcrum do are good for a daily driver with some sport use, but Jap spec ones are appalling.

Tyres, if you're having a punt, road tyres get chewed fairly quickly, I'd suggest just enjoy your first outing on your roadies, and maybe invest in a second set of wheels/tyres specifically for the track if you really enjoy it. I don't know what a C Drive is..... I'm not that good with computers :rofl:

No sweat mate. QR is a bit "safer" anyway.

DBA are far from the best available, but are a reasonable rotor for your car's current level. Don't get cross drilled, just slotted ones. A cheap pad for your car's level is Bendix Ultimate. Some guys hate them, I've had them though and they're fine for what you need.

It would be prudent to start looking for some 2nd hand GTR Brembos as a minimum, brakes are something you can't really overdo.

Have a good talk to people before spending money on Japanese spec coil overs. The Tein's Fulcrum do are good for a daily driver with some sport use, but Jap spec ones are appalling.

Tyres, if you're having a punt, road tyres get chewed fairly quickly, I'd suggest just enjoy your first outing on your roadies, and maybe invest in a second set of wheels/tyres specifically for the track if you really enjoy it. I don't know what a C Drive is..... I'm not that good with computers :P

Ok awesome well i was thinking street spec teins? i see some good value and quality

A Lot of people like JIC's which of the 2 would you recommend?

2nd set of rims is a good idea with semi slicks

again thanks for giving your time to answer my constant questions

and i am searching the forums also - that tourqe adjusting thing that sends more power to the front looks usefull.

THANKS!

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