Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No RNS11Z its from a white series 2 with internals,tomei cams, greddy plenum and a td06 25g

I made just over 400rwhp at a touch over 15psi and have now had the car tuned with a power fc, why do you need so much boost to make less power, maybe the td06 is worth the extra $$ hahaha

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well considering i dont have cams and cam gears, once i get the bigger injectors and bigger fuel pump 440rwhp will be easyly made. The reason why i had to use such high boost to get the power levels its at now is because of my fuel problem. If i were a mechanic.. hey id solve the problem myself and tell you the reason why its not making so much power.. but im not so thats just the way the cookies crumbles.

As I said in another post, the type of dyno used does matter. I read in a Fast Fours that the JUN s15 in Perth pumped out around 700hp (???) at the wheels on one dyno, only to produce a comparitively measly 550hp (or thereabouts) on another dyno. Well, actually it's still damn impressive but not so much when compared to the 700hp figure :O Best is to have a dyno day shootout for comparisons sake.

Generally dyno's do not vary that much.

Most of the time they are within 20rwkw of each other.

Well in Adelaide they are. All depends if they were both running the same mode etc. I think it is shootout mode that takes in to account temperature etc is it? If so that is the one that should be used.

RNS-11Z,

i'd like to know what exhaust housing you have with your GT35 as this in itself would restrict the amount of power that you'll get from your engine.

for eg,

the GT35 with an A/R .63 exhaust housing (714568-0003) is rated at 550hp whereas the core itself is actually rated at 600hp.

http://www.turbofast.com.au/GTseries.html

btw, does the turbo boost/power come in pretty quick or is it reasonably laggy?

Tune can make a HUGE difference. I was getting 230rwkw at one dyno - four hour tune, 257 at another days later - this was just a basic 'interim' tune (until gaget and cams) and it took less than an hour.

martin donnon explained that the only way to accurately compare dynos is to use shootout mode, and punch in the figures measured in the dyno bay at the time of tune - otherwise its not really an even playing field.

Out of interest, the correction on the day I got the 257kw tune, was only 1.029 so bugger all anyway:p

True, Steve does about 50% of SAUWA cause he does a great job, and doesn't bullshit us.

It seems that all of our turbo's are making similar levels of power, but making the power quite differently. It will be interesting to see what happens when we all push the turbo's harder.

Thanks for that site RS500. Much appreciated. Yes it is laggy but its just the way i like it. The part no: on my turbo is FC 6027J then its 706451-5. With a .7 A/R rating front housing (if i am correct but it has .7 stamped on the front housing). Not sure the size of tge rear if its .83 or 1.06 or .63

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...