Jump to content
SAU Community

Questions On Repairing Some Aesthetic Aspects Of My Car


Recommended Posts

hi all, i know this isn't directly the place to post this, but being a problem im looking to have repaired, somewhere in say, melbourne wouldn't be my best choice.

I recently purchased an R33 knowing it had some work required to be done to it, but however, i couldn't do it myself so im wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of a place that could help me out.

My problems are the following

Power windows wont operate (passenger side works sometimes) i believe that problem to be in the relay itself, but the drivers side i believe to be burnt out (the auto on button locks down, so i believe the previous owner just gave up on that) wouldn't be such a problem if they weren't down

second problem is that the central locking doesn't work on the drivers side, so i hit the central locking and it opens passenger side, but not drivers side. (this is right from the panel on the door itself, or by manually locking/unlocking) could be a problem with the actuators in the drivers panel.

hi all, i know this isn't directly the place to post this, but being a problem im looking to have repaired, somewhere in say, melbourne wouldn't be my best choice.

I recently purchased an R33 knowing it had some work required to be done to it, but however, i couldn't do it myself so im wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of a place that could help me out.

My problems are the following

Power windows wont operate (passenger side works sometimes) i believe that problem to be in the relay itself, but the drivers side i believe to be burnt out (the auto on button locks down, so i believe the previous owner just gave up on that) wouldn't be such a problem if they weren't down

second problem is that the central locking doesn't work on the drivers side, so i hit the central locking and it opens passenger side, but not drivers side. (this is right from the panel on the door itself, or by manually locking/unlocking) could be a problem with the actuators in the drivers panel.

This is normal...the switch only does the passenger side door.

yeah agree with above :)

normally when you get central locking with your alarm you need buy a seperate relay (about $120ish) to put in to get the drivers side to open perhaps the previous owner skipped that.

Edited by Inline 6

The window relays are a pretty common problem, but actually not too hard to fix (providing you have soldering gear). There is a thread on fixing them in the DIY forum

  • 2 weeks later...

ok so, the window is a tad more damaged than i initially thought (everything inside the door regarding the window basically needs replacing)

can anyone recommend a decent place to get this done?

other things aren't that big an issue, just need my windows fixed ><

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...