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hey there i have all the usual bits, have 2530-5's making 320AWKW 18lbs, i think now these turbos are just starting to get up and rock at this boost level, it seems to be a bit of a waste to run them at 18lbs,i dont want to go over 18lbs 7200rpms, i think with these restrictions, i should have gone for -7s?

  • 2 years later...

There are plenty of guys running standard motors (totally stock), with 300rwkw, for ages, no dramas. Trying to figure out how long your particular one will last is virtually impossible

Here's what to do, on a smallish budget;

SARD 700cc injectors or Injector Dynamics 800/1000's

Bosch 044 if your fuel pump is old and tired

Good clutch (personal preference is nismo twin plate but thats $2k)

S tune Nismo filter in stock airbox

Garrett -7's at 20-22psi

PFC Djetro (it doesnt use AFM's so that saves you from buying Z32's)

R34GTR dumps

Pretty much any aftermarket front pipes aswel as a cat back system (just get a 3.5' system)

Good flowing cat (or none, depends on if the car has rego)

Profec B spec 2 boost controller

That formula has seen 300rwkw on a few Sydney cars lately and is a really basic but quick setup. Cams add midrange, well worth it, but it all comes down to cost. If you want to post up what you've got etc surely someone here can/will help you in the right direction and help you to not buy useless mods.

EDIT: That above list sets you up for bigger power later if you choose to go that way, it will be a turbo change and some engine hardwear and you'll be closer to 400kw

Thanks alot N1GTR

At the moment im running/mods brought havent been put on

profec B spec 2

sard injectors 720(NOT ON CAR YET)

apexi power fc(gutted i should have brought djetro now i gotta buy some z32's)(NOT ON CAR YET)

3 1/2 all the way plus trust front pipes

i will be getting 2860 -5 (NOT ON CAR YETt) i know its going to be abit laggy on 300kw but i do intend to run 500hp later after it has blown,with forged bottom end.

denso fuel pump 305ltr anyone had any experience with these pumps?i can get them for 350NZD (NOT ON CAR YET)

after market cam gears most likely tomei(NOT ON CAR YET)

excedy HD clutch atm single

Blitz PODS

300x600 100mm tick intercooler with hks pipes(NOT ON CAR YET)

will the stock manifold be ok for 300kw ?

will try to source out some dumpies

Is there anything else im missing ?

Thanks alot guys

Thanks alot N1GTR

At the moment im running/mods brought havent been put on

profec B spec 2

sard injectors 720(NOT ON CAR YET)

apexi power fc(gutted i should have brought djetro now i gotta buy some z32's)(NOT ON CAR YET) Sell and get d jetro, or buy nismo AFM's

3 1/2 all the way plus trust front pipes

i will be getting 2860 -5 (NOT ON CAR YETt) i know its going to be abit laggy on 300kw but i do intend to run 500hp later after it has blown,with forged bottom end.

denso fuel pump 305ltr anyone had any experience with these pumps?i can get them for 350NZD (NOT ON CAR YET) 044 is a lot less than $350NZD delivered and everyone over here runs them pretty much without drama

after market cam gears most likely tomei(NOT ON CAR YET) Good choice

excedy HD clutch atm single

Blitz PODS Not needed but if you've already got them...

300x600 100mm tick intercooler with hks pipes(NOT ON CAR YET) Stock cooler and piping is perfect for the job

will the stock manifold be ok for 300kw ? Yes

will try to source out some dumpies R34 GTR, Tomei, Mines, Nismo, HKS will all do the job for that power. R34 ones will be cheapest

Is there anything else im missing ?

Thanks alot guys

leave the following:

stock intercooler

stock intake piping

stock airbox

stock exhaust manifolds (maybe just port match etc if you want - CAN be left until you rebuild anyway)

All are fine and perfect for 300-330rwkw & will be fine when you rebuild & go for 380rwkw later.

If you are only going to run 300rwkw, you can also leave the injectors as stock ones will be OK.

Stock AFM will be OK for 300rwkw also

BUT - you'll need to change them later for more power.

Definately put the CAM GEARs on though, best value mod you can do.

The bottom end could be fine for quite some time @ 300rwkw though mate, you should get smaller turbos now and swap later. By quite some time i mean 3+ years easily which is a long time to live with lag for the sake of less than 10% increase to rebuild budget later on :D

Thanks R31Nismoid

Sweet il leave the stockes alone an add them on when the motor go an when the rebuild is done an everything else is in place.

Yea man 3 or plus years with lagg will be dammn annoying im now thinking about getting some 2nd hand N1's most likely will

an a really good tune of course:D

Edited by nitestage32

Hey Guys,

So far im planning on running, so far I've bought the following,

- HKS GT-SS

- HKS EVC6

- HKS Timer

- HPI Dump

- GREDDY FMIC with Piping kit

- 3.5 full Do Luck exhaust

- Apexi D-Jetro

- Bosch 044 - any good? i use to run a walbro.

Okay, there are the to do list,

camshafts - what should I go for? I was thinking HKS but read it can be a bitch to tune? Would the V-CAM Step1 work well with the GT-SS? I read the initial HKS test car was running the GT-SS when testing the Step1? Worth it? Anyone tried it running the GT-SS?

cam gears- again was thinking HKS? Anything i should know about these? Any recommendations?

manifolds (was planning on running a 6boost manifold as i was told it increase by 200-400?

HKS fuel rails? required?

HKS injectors?

I am aiming for a super responsive car with atleast 320-340kw and want to squeeze every single kw i can get out of the stock motor.

Thanks guys

For 320-340kw, you only need GT-SS, exhaust, PFC, Injectors (600-1000cc) and cam gears.

Cams are waste of money same goes for V-Cam, Fuel rail.

Fuel pump, just get Nismo in tank - bit dear but drop right in.

FMIC aren't needed. EBC, up to you.

Thanks R31Nismoid

Sweet il leave the stockes alone an add them on when the motor go an when the rebuild is done an everything else is in place.

Yea man 3 or plus years with lagg will be dammn annoying im now thinking about getting some 2nd hand N1's most likely will

an a really good tune of course:D

Just a quick point - Careful of which "N1" items mate. R34 are the only decent ones!

R32/R33 are terribly laggy, so you'll wanna avoid those if you go down that route.

There are 2-3 sets of -7s (R34 N1 eqiv) for sale in the classifieds area at present :thumbsup:

Hey Guys,

So far im planning on running, so far I've bought the following,

- HKS GT-SS

- HKS EVC6

- HKS Timer

- HPI Dump

- GREDDY FMIC with Piping kit

- 3.5 full Do Luck exhaust

- Apexi D-Jetro

- Bosch 044 - any good? i use to run a walbro.

Okay, there are the to do list,

camshafts - what should I go for? I was thinking HKS but read it can be a bitch to tune? Would the V-CAM Step1 work well with the GT-SS? I read the initial HKS test car was running the GT-SS when testing the Step1? Worth it? Anyone tried it running the GT-SS?

cam gears- again was thinking HKS? Anything i should know about these? Any recommendations?

manifolds (was planning on running a 6boost manifold as i was told it increase by 200-400?

HKS fuel rails? required?

HKS injectors?

I am aiming for a super responsive car with atleast 320-340kw and want to squeeze every single kw i can get out of the stock motor.

Thanks guys

You really don’t need the cooler kit, it’s just spending money for zero gain. You could sell and get $$ back for other stuff if you need.

And definitely throw the Walbro in the bin. 044 is fine. If you want a direct bolt-in solution then go Nismo – either/or will be fine. Bosch just takes more work to fit it.

Cams – a topic that will be forever debated for/against. I will say stock for on/off throttle response. Others will say 260 they look better on the dyno. So it’s very subjective topic.

V-CAM – Not the same as “cams” either. It’s a full VCT system. Expensive for the gains you’ll get with -9 turbos. -9s are just so responsive anyway (3300rpm you are well on). If you have money to burn then why not I guess, but it’s a LOT of money for what you’ll get back.

Cam Gears – 4000% worth it. Best “$$$ vs gain” mod on a RB26. (wont need if you go V-CAM tho)

Manifold – IMO lot of effort, given the fitment issues. Stick with stock(ported) items, fit perfect, look stock, retain factory heat shielding etc.

Fuel Rail – Not required if you have bolt-in injectors. Rail will do not much more than look shiny

Basically nothing - isn't nothing spew-bucket :D

Just giving him another option should he want it. I have a Bosch in the 31 and its certainly audible. Can't hear the Nismo in the GTR (be that a problem or not for the user i dont know). Better to have too many options than none at all.

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