Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No dramas.

A built engine isnt a requirement for that power level, but if you've got it done already there's no point not using it. Yes the -7's are bolt on factory position, while you're at it though with the turbos off it is a good chance to upgrade your dump pipes (std 32 suck) and also so you know, that result was on the stock exhaust manifolds :)

-7s are basically the R34 N1 equivalent.

The -9 are a little bigger. So yes the -7s will be responsive, about as responsive as you can get really.

I did a comparo a while back you should have a bit of a read over etc.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/350440-dyno-comparo-various-twins-rb26/

Thanks for the reply with graphs.

Nismoid, I notice in the comparo that a couple of the cars went from -5s to -7s.

Was this from a drivability point of view or something else?

Final question

Car is a daily so between -5s and -7s what do you think?

I should mention that I work fairly close to home so not huge amounts of ks.

Will -5s be a response improvement from early nismos?

Sorry for all the questions. Trying to gather as much info before making decision

Cheers

Luke

-7s are basically the R34 N1 equivalent.

The -9 are a little bigger. So yes the -7s will be responsive, about as responsive as you can get really.

I did a comparo a while back you should have a bit of a read over etc.

They come on about 4-4.5k surely there are more responsive setups out there. Something only slightly bigger spec than the stock turbos would be fantastic for a 95% street car, make ~280kw and come on at 3-3.5k instead.

Thanks for the reply with graphs.

Nismoid, I notice in the comparo that a couple of the cars went from -5s to -7s.

Was this from a drivability point of view or something else?

Final question

Car is a daily so between -5s and -7s what do you think?

I should mention that I work fairly close to home so not huge amounts of ks.

Will -5s be a response improvement from early nismos?

Sorry for all the questions. Trying to gather as much info before making decision

Cheers

Luke

They were all different cars mostly, the ones that went to smaller (-9/-7) from larger ones -5 was mainly from a rule situation given Targa ruling and other motorsport etc.

I've had -9s, -5s.

Currently have -5s and for the street IMO they are too laggy on a 2.6ltr. You really have to ring the neck and peg back gears where with the -9s in the hills you had power everywhere

Whilst it only seems like a "few" hundred RPM on the graphs/dyno loaded in 4th - i can tell you on the street it is much more noticeable in 2nd/3rd and to anyone that asks i will always say -9s for a street GTR.

-7s being a tad more responsive again (over -9) would be an excellent choice if response is your #1 goal.

They come on about 4-4.5k surely there are more responsive setups out there. Something only slightly bigger spec than the stock turbos would be fantastic for a 95% street car, make ~280kw and come on at 3-3.5k instead.

4500rpm?

Are you trippin?

4500rpm?

Are you trippin?

Looking at that graph full boost looks about 4500rpm, I've never been in a car with them though, what is it like on the street to drive?

Edited by Rolls

I've never been in a car with them though

Without being rude, this is the issue.

Please dont forget this isnt an RB25 thread, it's built GTR owners talking from their own experience with other GTR owners :)

Without being rude, this is the issue.

Well with other cars when the dyno comes on at 4.5k they usually seem very laggy, I'm just going on my own experience, at what rpm do they seem to come on when you are driving them on the street?

Also prefacing something with 'without sounding rude' doesn't mean it doesn't come across as rude.

Edited by Rolls

Well with other cars when the dyno comes on at 4.5k they usually seem very laggy, I'm just going on my own experience, at what rpm do they seem to come on when you are driving them on the street?

Also prefacing something with 'without sounding rude' doesn't mean it doesn't come across as rude.

Ok well tell me another preface to use and I'll happily use it.

There is positive pressure pretty much all the time. Between gears there is zero drop off compared to some of the popular large direct fit turbos like GTRS's/Tomei's new turbos and to a lesser extent -5's which Ash has already mentioned.

In an R32GTR that has these, std cams, PFC, larger front pipes and exhaust and R34GTR dumps to give you an idea from a set of lights in first gear by 2500rpm it's moving along "swiftly" (i guess thats a decent word) add another 1000rpm and it's making as much as a late model commodore does (when it's going flat out). Add one more thousand and you've pulled so far away from normal traffic that you really should back off and change gear, if you dont, the needle will flick up very quickly to 8000rpm and then you grab second, as soon as the gear is engaged and you open the throttle the rear of the car squats down again and the needle will be heading sharply towards the limiter. You're now over 100kmh, about to grab 3rd where it will pull just as hard (but take longer to reach 8000 than in the lower gears of course) and if at any point you're seen by a policeman you're in trouble.

In an R34 (the one above in the graph) with the same basic upgraded parts but 260IN&EX 9.15mm cams, it's much the same, pulls from 2000rpm, moving quite well by 3000rpm and by 4000rpm if you're still flat stick make sure there's no one infront of you for a bit.

Something else worth noting, both of them have perfect street manners just like Ash's car did on 9's (and all the ones listed on his dyno graph thread with the exception of the -5 powered ones), no police issue's (engine bay looks totally stock) other than the exhaust, you dont need to flog its brains out to make it move along with traffic etc. That should give you a bit of an idea what they're like

Well with other cars when the dyno comes on at 4.5k they usually seem very laggy, I'm just going on my own experience, at what rpm do they seem to come on when you are driving them on the street?

Also prefacing something with 'without sounding rude' doesn't mean it doesn't come across as rude.

With -9s its well and truly all on by 4000rpm.

You then have 4000rpm then to play with, in my case im using 4300rpm. This isn't a RB25 thread where the show ends at 7000rpm - this is a GTR/RB26 thread.

Thanks for that.

Out of curiosity what lets them keep on flowing to 8k where in a 25 etc it will fall over after 7k, is it the better head etc? Or ITBs and a combination of things.

rb25det stock cams have 7.8mm of lift on both in and ex, rb26dett stock cams have 8.58mm in, 8.28mm ex of lift. It's why rb25det's make peak power at 6400rpm and rb26dett's at 6800rpm

Just found this really interesting link.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html

Looks like the neo rb25 has even more lift than the rb26s on the exhaust cam, curious to see if this follows through on dyno sheets with neo rb25dets, do they seem to hold top end power better than r33 rb25s?

neo in 8.4 ex 8.7

rb26 in 8.6 ex 8.28

though the 26 ex has more duration and different LCA

The whole setup is what gets the result. They dont stop at 8000rpm, they can go past, most stop at 8000rpm though to not wreck an expensive-to-rebuild engine.

What are the parts of the 'whole setup' that allow it? all that is different is ITBs and cams/valves yes?

Rolls, you start new thread about it.

People come to this thread to learn about building 300-330kw GT-R, thus this thread is to provide info on the requirements of building one, simple as.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...