Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No dramas.

A built engine isnt a requirement for that power level, but if you've got it done already there's no point not using it. Yes the -7's are bolt on factory position, while you're at it though with the turbos off it is a good chance to upgrade your dump pipes (std 32 suck) and also so you know, that result was on the stock exhaust manifolds :)

-7s are basically the R34 N1 equivalent.

The -9 are a little bigger. So yes the -7s will be responsive, about as responsive as you can get really.

I did a comparo a while back you should have a bit of a read over etc.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/350440-dyno-comparo-various-twins-rb26/

Thanks for the reply with graphs.

Nismoid, I notice in the comparo that a couple of the cars went from -5s to -7s.

Was this from a drivability point of view or something else?

Final question

Car is a daily so between -5s and -7s what do you think?

I should mention that I work fairly close to home so not huge amounts of ks.

Will -5s be a response improvement from early nismos?

Sorry for all the questions. Trying to gather as much info before making decision

Cheers

Luke

-7s are basically the R34 N1 equivalent.

The -9 are a little bigger. So yes the -7s will be responsive, about as responsive as you can get really.

I did a comparo a while back you should have a bit of a read over etc.

They come on about 4-4.5k surely there are more responsive setups out there. Something only slightly bigger spec than the stock turbos would be fantastic for a 95% street car, make ~280kw and come on at 3-3.5k instead.

Thanks for the reply with graphs.

Nismoid, I notice in the comparo that a couple of the cars went from -5s to -7s.

Was this from a drivability point of view or something else?

Final question

Car is a daily so between -5s and -7s what do you think?

I should mention that I work fairly close to home so not huge amounts of ks.

Will -5s be a response improvement from early nismos?

Sorry for all the questions. Trying to gather as much info before making decision

Cheers

Luke

They were all different cars mostly, the ones that went to smaller (-9/-7) from larger ones -5 was mainly from a rule situation given Targa ruling and other motorsport etc.

I've had -9s, -5s.

Currently have -5s and for the street IMO they are too laggy on a 2.6ltr. You really have to ring the neck and peg back gears where with the -9s in the hills you had power everywhere

Whilst it only seems like a "few" hundred RPM on the graphs/dyno loaded in 4th - i can tell you on the street it is much more noticeable in 2nd/3rd and to anyone that asks i will always say -9s for a street GTR.

-7s being a tad more responsive again (over -9) would be an excellent choice if response is your #1 goal.

They come on about 4-4.5k surely there are more responsive setups out there. Something only slightly bigger spec than the stock turbos would be fantastic for a 95% street car, make ~280kw and come on at 3-3.5k instead.

4500rpm?

Are you trippin?

4500rpm?

Are you trippin?

Looking at that graph full boost looks about 4500rpm, I've never been in a car with them though, what is it like on the street to drive?

Edited by Rolls

I've never been in a car with them though

Without being rude, this is the issue.

Please dont forget this isnt an RB25 thread, it's built GTR owners talking from their own experience with other GTR owners :)

Without being rude, this is the issue.

Well with other cars when the dyno comes on at 4.5k they usually seem very laggy, I'm just going on my own experience, at what rpm do they seem to come on when you are driving them on the street?

Also prefacing something with 'without sounding rude' doesn't mean it doesn't come across as rude.

Edited by Rolls

Well with other cars when the dyno comes on at 4.5k they usually seem very laggy, I'm just going on my own experience, at what rpm do they seem to come on when you are driving them on the street?

Also prefacing something with 'without sounding rude' doesn't mean it doesn't come across as rude.

Ok well tell me another preface to use and I'll happily use it.

There is positive pressure pretty much all the time. Between gears there is zero drop off compared to some of the popular large direct fit turbos like GTRS's/Tomei's new turbos and to a lesser extent -5's which Ash has already mentioned.

In an R32GTR that has these, std cams, PFC, larger front pipes and exhaust and R34GTR dumps to give you an idea from a set of lights in first gear by 2500rpm it's moving along "swiftly" (i guess thats a decent word) add another 1000rpm and it's making as much as a late model commodore does (when it's going flat out). Add one more thousand and you've pulled so far away from normal traffic that you really should back off and change gear, if you dont, the needle will flick up very quickly to 8000rpm and then you grab second, as soon as the gear is engaged and you open the throttle the rear of the car squats down again and the needle will be heading sharply towards the limiter. You're now over 100kmh, about to grab 3rd where it will pull just as hard (but take longer to reach 8000 than in the lower gears of course) and if at any point you're seen by a policeman you're in trouble.

In an R34 (the one above in the graph) with the same basic upgraded parts but 260IN&EX 9.15mm cams, it's much the same, pulls from 2000rpm, moving quite well by 3000rpm and by 4000rpm if you're still flat stick make sure there's no one infront of you for a bit.

Something else worth noting, both of them have perfect street manners just like Ash's car did on 9's (and all the ones listed on his dyno graph thread with the exception of the -5 powered ones), no police issue's (engine bay looks totally stock) other than the exhaust, you dont need to flog its brains out to make it move along with traffic etc. That should give you a bit of an idea what they're like

Well with other cars when the dyno comes on at 4.5k they usually seem very laggy, I'm just going on my own experience, at what rpm do they seem to come on when you are driving them on the street?

Also prefacing something with 'without sounding rude' doesn't mean it doesn't come across as rude.

With -9s its well and truly all on by 4000rpm.

You then have 4000rpm then to play with, in my case im using 4300rpm. This isn't a RB25 thread where the show ends at 7000rpm - this is a GTR/RB26 thread.

Thanks for that.

Out of curiosity what lets them keep on flowing to 8k where in a 25 etc it will fall over after 7k, is it the better head etc? Or ITBs and a combination of things.

rb25det stock cams have 7.8mm of lift on both in and ex, rb26dett stock cams have 8.58mm in, 8.28mm ex of lift. It's why rb25det's make peak power at 6400rpm and rb26dett's at 6800rpm

Just found this really interesting link.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html

Looks like the neo rb25 has even more lift than the rb26s on the exhaust cam, curious to see if this follows through on dyno sheets with neo rb25dets, do they seem to hold top end power better than r33 rb25s?

neo in 8.4 ex 8.7

rb26 in 8.6 ex 8.28

though the 26 ex has more duration and different LCA

The whole setup is what gets the result. They dont stop at 8000rpm, they can go past, most stop at 8000rpm though to not wreck an expensive-to-rebuild engine.

What are the parts of the 'whole setup' that allow it? all that is different is ITBs and cams/valves yes?

Rolls, you start new thread about it.

People come to this thread to learn about building 300-330kw GT-R, thus this thread is to provide info on the requirements of building one, simple as.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...