Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my testing was on windows xp and it was sweeet no issues

i have heard vista is generally ass and i wouldnt touch vista with a 10ft pole

I'm taking it that you used Fc edit right?

If so under setup what "Fc-box" do you select for it to recognize Fc Hako?

Also Paul i could of sworn that there was a list of widebands that were compatible with Fc edit/datalogit in the faq but i had a look again and didnt see anything...

or it was probably somewhere else i read it but..

Does it matter the brand of the wideband or will any one be compatible with Fc hako once it has a 5V output?

Btw...nice work guys

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Just upgrade to Windows 7. I've been using it on my laptop for 2 years with three different USB to Serial convertors (all running at once on the same machine at times) and it's worked flawlessly.

no go as lot of the Motec stuff is DOS based.

you have a toughbook! you lucky man.... how good are they! my dell c400 does me fine for now.

if your seriuos dude, they are the only thing that interfaces with every different tuning interface with 100% reliability.... ive spent 10000000's on flash laptops, top of the range this and that with all the different windows and honestly the TOUGHBOOK ON XP eats every thing... i love it and i have a killer supplier now for them.

im looking to upgrade (new model) so when i get rid of this one i will let you know it will go CHEAP.

  • 2 weeks later...
FC-HAKO includes USB interface, rather than using a USB-to-RS232 converter cable which then gets converted to TTL levels with a MAX232 or similar chip.

Not sure if people use more than 2 analog inputs or the 4 switch outputs. Those are not supported.

It also supports official software (FC-Pro JP only, including analog inputs), and third party software.

It also supports firmware updating, if any bug fixes or new features need to be added to the hardware in the future.

So will it work if i hook up my Aem uego wideband 0-5v output to the analog inputs for logging?

Will it have any issues with calibration?

  • 1 month later...

I've personally tried and confirm the FC-HAKO works on:

* Windows XP Pro

* Windows 7 (32 bit)

I know for sure it does NOT work on:

* Windows XP Home (prolific drivers aren't detected)

* Windows 7 (64 bit, in "XP-mode" virtualisation, barely works?)

I released FC-HAKO firmware v1.01 the last few weeks to address some initial / continuing connectivity issues.

v1.02 will be forthcoming later in the week to address corner-case SW & HW auto-detection issues, aswell as addressing support for all legacy PowerFCs. Weirdly enough, the 1JZ / 2JZ PowerFC is a special case with its own communications protocol (different speed).

I would appreciate if there is anyone in Perth with an older PowerFC (with FCC2 NT hand controller) so I can verify it indeed works. The PowerFC model must be in the format of:

* PFC ER34 9901-0123

* PFC RB25 9703-0515

* PFC RB26 9609-0351

Thanks.

BK.

I've personally tried and confirm the FC-HAKO works on:

* Windows XP Pro

* Windows 7 (32 bit)

I know for sure it does NOT work on:

* Windows XP Home (prolific drivers aren't detected)

* Windows 7 (64 bit, in "XP-mode" virtualisation, barely works?)

I released FC-HAKO firmware v1.01 the last few weeks to address some initial / continuing connectivity issues.

v1.02 will be forthcoming later in the week to address corner-case SW & HW auto-detection issues, aswell as addressing support for all legacy PowerFCs. Weirdly enough, the 1JZ / 2JZ PowerFC is a special case with its own communications protocol (different speed).

I would appreciate if there is anyone in Perth with an older PowerFC (with FCC2 NT hand controller) so I can verify it indeed works. The PowerFC model must be in the format of:

* PFC ER34 9901-0123

* PFC RB25 9703-0515

* PFC RB26 9609-0351

Thanks.

BK.

Hey mate, Im in perth with a ER34 pfc and your FC hako. The 1.01 firm ware made it alot easier to get it log for me. yet I still get the odd glitch with FC edit locking up.

Were do I get the model code? can I view it with the commander or do I need remove the fc and read it off the sticker???

Chris

I've personally tried and confirm the FC-HAKO works on:

* Windows XP Pro

* Windows 7 (32 bit)

I know for sure it does NOT work on:

* Windows XP Home (prolific drivers aren't detected)

* Windows 7 (64 bit, in "XP-mode" virtualisation, barely works?)

BK>>>>>>

When you say it works with Windows 7 (32bit) are u referring to Windows 7 Professional 32bit or Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit ???

Or does it work with both???

I need to know so i can buy my new laptop asap.....well... and of course the hako :thumbsup:

I've been looking for weeks now for one with xp pro but had no luck so this is excellent news...just need to know EXACTLY which version of Windows 7 i need now

Are there any other guys who can confirm it works with 7 (32bit)???

Btw you need to update this to the faq on your site...it is contradicting what u said here

Edited by Don Dada
I've personally tried and confirm the FC-HAKO works on:

* Windows XP Pro

* Windows 7 (32 bit)

I know for sure it does NOT work on:

* Windows XP Home (prolific drivers aren't detected)

* Windows 7 (64 bit, in "XP-mode" virtualisation, barely works?)

I released FC-HAKO firmware v1.01 the last few weeks to address some initial / continuing connectivity issues.

v1.02 will be forthcoming later in the week to address corner-case SW & HW auto-detection issues, aswell as addressing support for all legacy PowerFCs. Weirdly enough, the 1JZ / 2JZ PowerFC is a special case with its own communications protocol (different speed).

I would appreciate if there is anyone in Perth with an older PowerFC (with FCC2 NT hand controller) so I can verify it indeed works. The PowerFC model must be in the format of:

* PFC ER34 9901-0123

* PFC RB25 9703-0515

* PFC RB26 9609-0351

Thanks.

BK.

Sweet, it turned out the old usb to serial drivers that were supplied literally screwed all my USB connectivity for other products, i had to do a full FTDI clean / erase. hopefully the new driver eliminates all the issues.

Hey mate, Im in perth with a ER34 pfc and your FC hako. The 1.01 firm ware made it alot easier to get it log for me. yet I still get the odd glitch with FC edit locking up.

Were do I get the model code? can I view it with the commander or do I need remove the fc and read it off the sticker???

Chris

Should be on the case itself. Or tell me which hand commander you have (FCC2 NT or FCC3)

ER34 was apparently the "older" designed ones... but it appears to use the newer comms protocol. This is the same for the ECR33 PowerFC: old chip - hence not in production any more - but newer comms.

yeah, v1.00 was a bit problematic over 5minutes+. v1.01 should have resolved it. I've tried it on the 1JZ + 15 minutes of logging, no problems whatsoever, considering the protocol used for the 1JZ / 2JZ is 6x quicker (~160 kHz) than all the other protocols (20-30 kHz) to the PowerFC.

When you say it works with Windows 7 (32bit) are u referring to Windows 7 Professional 32bit or Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit ???

I only have Windows 7 Ultimate, installed on a 32-bit CPU.

Btw you need to update this to the faq on your site...it is contradicting what u said here

Updated.

The most important thing with the FC-HAKO, or rather the USB-to-serial cable, is to allow _absolutely_ minimum 10 seconds after physical connection before you initiate connection with the PowerFC.

It takes 10 seconds for the PC to detect and add the com port of the USB-to-serial device. A couple of times I carelessly tried to connect too early whilst testing and thought wtf was wrong.

So it is best to allow 15 seconds.

It's also recommended that you stick to the same USB port that it was initially detected on, especially for WinXP.

Edited by _bk_

A few weeks ago, I did update the FC-HAKO firmware on Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit CPU. That was no problem for me.

I couldn't haul that desktop computer to the car to test :thumbsup:

The most important thing is to NOT use Win7 64-bit "XP-mode" virtualisation. I had an American ex-pat guy in Japan do this, and he said it rarely worked successfully with PFCPing. Not only that, I think he also tried to connect within the first 10 seconds of connection, hence it "failed". And I think he also tried to use FC-Edit with auto-com detect mode, which is NOT supported.

Hope that helps.

It's funny that everyone else has managed to update the FC-HAKO firmware no problem.

But I had one guy - with 15 years serial communications programming experience - have the most amount of problems I have ever seen.

Another guy, also with 20+ years software development experience, had forgotten to check the most obvious - if all the cables are connected - after spending 2 days trying to figure out what was the problem.

So if you're a software developer, especially with serial comms experience, please don't ask me for help, and just be a normal user for once! :-)

Ever thought of porting this to mobile devices just as a disply thing, if you have i believe the android OS should be the first one to get it :blink:

Via serial or bluetooth? :devil:

FastHatch (Andre) was supposed to release his PSP-like modified hand controller device which would communicate with the PowerFC. He's already written the software and made pre-production hardware modifications... it's a matter of modifying the hardware, selling it as a package and supporting it :cool:

But I doubt it will go anywhere apart from a once-off prototype, since his primary aim is to use this project as part of his masters degree.

Anyway... it's not really my intended market now or in the future.

Via serial or bluetooth? :devil:
Anyway... it's not really my intended market now or in the future.

:blink: i guess its pointless answering the first question then, i thinkit would sell tho, especially bluetooth, i like to be able to see the hand controller but so do the switched on TMU, would be good to have it display on the phone and be able to turn it off if you get pulled over.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...