Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

everyone you ask states that larger exhausts are louder, but whenever i see a gtr or the like with a larger aftermarker exhaust (3-4 inche diametres) they are pretty passive and even at higher rpms you don't hear a roar. can someone please clarify exhasut noise and size for me.

thankyou

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23672-exhasut-noise/
Share on other sites

my opinion is:

energy is created in teh engine from the release of chemical energy in fuel to mechanical energy through the driveline. Of the products of the reaction (exhaust) which still contain energy this is released of which some is released into heat, some into noise and some as chemical energy still.

If you have a turbocharged car (or 2 turbo's), then the wheel spinning in the exhaust uses energy from the exhaust gas in the form of heat and mechanical energy thus leaving less energy in teh exhaust and thus a reduced amount energy to be lost as noise.

summary:

if the car is non-turbo then louder

if the car is turbo then quieter (especially if twin turbo)

Note: this explanation is purely from a physics explanation based on the theory of energy conservation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23672-exhasut-noise/#findComment-506732
Share on other sites

i have a 3" straight through from the turbo, two decent mufflers and she's pretty quiet most of the time. most NA 4's are louder than it. However, bring the needle the fun side of 5 grand and you know all about noise. A lot depends on the degree of muffling your exhaust has as it slows down the gas flow which subdues the noise somewhat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23672-exhasut-noise/#findComment-506751
Share on other sites

My 3" full exhaust system is pretty quiet on idle.

Following the "theory of energy conservation" mentioned above, up to 2000rpm my exhaust noise increases quite a lot like a big grumbling vroooom, due to the fact that perhaps the energy has not been used to spin the exhaust turbine wheel that much. Once past 2000rpm, where the energy would have been used for turbo to spool up and boost, the noise becomes a quiet sounds more like raspy rrrrrrrraaaaahhh.... tone.

Then of course 5000rpm plus it gets pretty loud he he he....

Not to mention the occasional "bang" from the overly too common exhaust pop noise... probably running too rich.

On NA cars, esp Civics, Excels, Integras, if they put some aftermarket exhaust, it never sounds good. All the ones I've heard on the street so far sounds like a terrible squeezed fart. Vvvbbreeeeettttttt........

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23672-exhasut-noise/#findComment-506780
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...