Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Greetings,

I recently bought a R34 GT-V skyline, 2000 model series 2 and whatnot, 4-door. I've got my full URAS body kit which I plan on fitting on but I cant drive the car properly without getting my manuals and I get them around the same time the car gets its vapor injection system installed. The car has 106k on the clock, got it for 15 grand, and it's of course manual. So here's what I'm looking at doing by mid November.

-Full uras kit

-vapor injection system

-Sound system

-lowered springs

-hid lights

These combined costing nearly 10k.

Now what I want to know is general problems which R34's tend to have, I know mines done 106k kilometers but the engine is brilliant and apparently most of it was highway kilometers and that shows but you never know. So what are they known for? In terms of breaking down, certain parts I might aswell upgrade because they're known for failure etc. Thanks fellas.

-Lots of love.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237165-getting-to-know-my-skyline/
Share on other sites

Interesting. Personally I'd stick with premium unleaded - no spend on LPG maintenance. I've done some background reading into the vapour system, it seems the more superior system is liquid injection, either way, if you do go the LPG route you should increase your engine compression so that you will not feel the power loss or get some sort of forced induction. http://www.lpgli.com/features.html

Its a 4 door, so its not sports but yeh, i know liquid is better but the guy im getting it installed from said liquid is not as good as people think it is, apparently it has a much much higher failure rate and vapour is basically perfected while liquid aint quite at that level yet. The guy who told me this is a very experience lpg installer guy, who was the first person to introduce injection into Australia and one of his main staff used to be the head of the company which invented liquid injection back 9 or so years ago so i trust him :P

Is this a family affair or something??? Haha....Cara and her 'Impul'...Ian and his 'Uras'...Kris and his....R33....... :) hahaaaa (jks jks, i like R33's :D especially since all the 34's here are non turbo rofl!)

First reply was the only thing you need to know Ian....coilpacks...and when you get them, don't go back to Shane at Power Roads or whatever he calls himself :D He charges like 1 grand for nissan ones when you can get Spitfires for bout 7-8oo mullah installed (yes thats all 6 packs) As one of the guys that just got it replaced on here a week ago, with a R34 4 door from same place we all got our skylines from :D

Uras on 4 door looks hot. On 2 not so hot...actually its quite yuck. Veilside looks even shittier on a 2 door and a bit over the top! Then again i can't talk cause i got a Bomex kit with wide panels...

Also another problem you douche', is the steering arms themselves as i have witnessed first hand...do not fk the front end of your car into a pot hole or hit a gutter :bunny: cause you will pay for it dearly my friend :cool: ....peace be with you. Also 10K for those mods??? How much is the Vapour crap??? 8K???

Ps make sure you get the Uras eyelids of you get the full kit!

that uras kit looks really nice on the 4 door, and veilside does suck, way too over the top, and yeah when i comes to coilpacks spitfire are usually the go once they fail, and pretty easy to install em yourself if you want to save some cash

Body kits = fail... Just plain ugly and destroying factory lines! But, each to there own.

As to the gas, and "loss of performance", you can actually extract more power from gas, then you can from premium unleaded... Why? It has a higher octane rating, and hence, is more resistant to knocking.

The ISSUE with tuning for sheer power on LPG, is that LPG doesn't have the quality control that petrol does.

IE, you gas it up one day at say 114octane, but a few days later, you gas up at another place, but there gas is only 105 octane... That's an issue if you're tuned on the edge on 114 octane...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...