Jump to content
SAU Community

What Exhaust Housing Is This?

Rekin

By Rekin,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

Hello,

Ive purchased a GT2530 turbo from yahoo auction which was listed for Skyline RB's.

It arrived yesterday and noticed that the exhaust housing was nothing similar to rb20/rb25...

I was wondering if anyone could identify the exhaust housing for the turbo so I can sell it.

If anyone wants it, you can have it for $900ono.

The little Garrett plate has seemed to be snapped off the turbo, so cant identify it with any model numbers..

It has a T3 flange, just the exhaust housing doesnt match up with standard rb20/rb25 dump pipe..

Hopefully someone can recognise it or it will become an expensive paper-weight :P

Cheers

Patrick

img1748mediumsc8.jpg

indexun3.jpg

img1743mediumar5.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237440-what-exhaust-housing-is-this/
Share on other sites
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

it's an early hks turbo (either 2530 or 2535) that used to be sold with a cast dump to suit an rb front pipe.

Very early 2530's came out this way, as did the old t3g's. I have seen the dumps first hand.

The outlet looks very similar to an IW t2 turbo so all is not necessarily lost. Just a bit more custom work....

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Interesting that it has a "Garrett" housing on it - and you mentioned 0.67 A/R . Can you double check it to be absolutely certain it doesn't say 64 or 0.64 because Garretts usual T25/28 flanged GT28 housings are normally 0.64 A/R ratio .

Me wonders if the later HKS branded turbine housings were also 0.67 A/R because that would explain partly why some HKS spec turbos ie GT2530/GT2535/GTRS(GT2871R 52T) make slightly more power than even a very close spec Garrett market turbocharger .

I remember seeing a bush bearing turbo at Turbologic some years ago that used I think the same turbine and it had a "T3" flanged Garrett housing on it . Have to look closer into this as it may have the same turbine housing as that early HKS one in your pics .

If this is the case we may have stumbled upon the critical thing that allows us to mount GT28BB Garrett marketed turbos on RB engines and save a few bucks over expensive HKS units .

If there are any part numbers cast into that turbine housing of yours can you let me know and I'll chase it up .

Cheers A .

Ceffy_SA Collaborator

Ceffy_SA

Posted
Posted

Hey Rekin, as i said on NS.com im using the exact same turbo currently on my RB20, i bought it as a HKS T3G turbo with the stock cast dump pipe to suit it, bolted straight up to my RB20 and is making some very decent power on my engine with minimal lag for a RB20. Mine still has the ID plate on the turbo, i can get the numbers off it tonight if that will help anyone?

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Interesting that it has a "Garrett" housing on it - and you mentioned 0.67 A/R . Can you double check it to be absolutely certain it doesn't say 64 or 0.64 because Garretts usual T25/28 flanged GT28 housings are normally 0.64 A/R ratio .

Me wonders if the later HKS branded turbine housings were also 0.67 A/R because that would explain partly why some HKS spec turbos ie GT2530/GT2535/GTRS(GT2871R 52T) make slightly more power than even a very close spec Garrett market turbocharger .

I remember seeing a bush bearing turbo at Turbologic some years ago that used I think the same turbine and it had a "T3" flanged Garrett housing on it . Have to look closer into this as it may have the same turbine housing as that early HKS one in your pics .

If this is the case we may have stumbled upon the critical thing that allows us to mount GT28BB Garrett marketed turbos on RB engines and save a few bucks over expensive HKS units .

If there are any part numbers cast into that turbine housing of yours can you let me know and I'll chase it up .

Cheers A .

Hey, very interesting to read, thanks for the info.

I found some numbers, let us know if they mean anything :mellow:

img1754mediumvt7.th.jpgimg1762mediumqv8.th.jpg

img1760mediumci2.th.jpgimg1765mediumqc0.th.jpg

The numbers on the side say something like;

M3

67

H4

558

Hey Rekin, as i said on NS.com im using the exact same turbo currently on my RB20, i bought it as a HKS T3G turbo with the stock cast dump pipe to suit it, bolted straight up to my RB20 and is making some very decent power on my engine with minimal lag for a RB20. Mine still has the ID plate on the turbo, i can get the numbers off it tonight if that will help anyone?

Hey, Would you happen to have a part/model number for the dump pipe?

If i can get a number, i could probably chase one up through HKS etc

Thanks :rant:

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Something I forgot to mention was that generally Ball Bearing type "GT28" style turbine housings have six holes and bolts to clamp the crab plates onto the turbos center section (bearing housing) .

From what I can see yours has four and that sometimes means it's of a bush bearing type turbocharger , they possibly interchange so that could be one answer .

I'll have to look into the old TA/TB34 series turbos to see if they used that housing .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Piggaz
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By Piggaz · Posted

      You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...