Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Ive purchased a GT2530 turbo from yahoo auction which was listed for Skyline RB's.

It arrived yesterday and noticed that the exhaust housing was nothing similar to rb20/rb25...

I was wondering if anyone could identify the exhaust housing for the turbo so I can sell it.

If anyone wants it, you can have it for $900ono.

The little Garrett plate has seemed to be snapped off the turbo, so cant identify it with any model numbers..

It has a T3 flange, just the exhaust housing doesnt match up with standard rb20/rb25 dump pipe..

Hopefully someone can recognise it or it will become an expensive paper-weight :P

Cheers

Patrick

img1748mediumsc8.jpg

indexun3.jpg

img1743mediumar5.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237440-what-exhaust-housing-is-this/
Share on other sites

it's an early hks turbo (either 2530 or 2535) that used to be sold with a cast dump to suit an rb front pipe.

Very early 2530's came out this way, as did the old t3g's. I have seen the dumps first hand.

The outlet looks very similar to an IW t2 turbo so all is not necessarily lost. Just a bit more custom work....

Interesting that it has a "Garrett" housing on it - and you mentioned 0.67 A/R . Can you double check it to be absolutely certain it doesn't say 64 or 0.64 because Garretts usual T25/28 flanged GT28 housings are normally 0.64 A/R ratio .

Me wonders if the later HKS branded turbine housings were also 0.67 A/R because that would explain partly why some HKS spec turbos ie GT2530/GT2535/GTRS(GT2871R 52T) make slightly more power than even a very close spec Garrett market turbocharger .

I remember seeing a bush bearing turbo at Turbologic some years ago that used I think the same turbine and it had a "T3" flanged Garrett housing on it . Have to look closer into this as it may have the same turbine housing as that early HKS one in your pics .

If this is the case we may have stumbled upon the critical thing that allows us to mount GT28BB Garrett marketed turbos on RB engines and save a few bucks over expensive HKS units .

If there are any part numbers cast into that turbine housing of yours can you let me know and I'll chase it up .

Cheers A .

Hey Rekin, as i said on NS.com im using the exact same turbo currently on my RB20, i bought it as a HKS T3G turbo with the stock cast dump pipe to suit it, bolted straight up to my RB20 and is making some very decent power on my engine with minimal lag for a RB20. Mine still has the ID plate on the turbo, i can get the numbers off it tonight if that will help anyone?

Interesting that it has a "Garrett" housing on it - and you mentioned 0.67 A/R . Can you double check it to be absolutely certain it doesn't say 64 or 0.64 because Garretts usual T25/28 flanged GT28 housings are normally 0.64 A/R ratio .

Me wonders if the later HKS branded turbine housings were also 0.67 A/R because that would explain partly why some HKS spec turbos ie GT2530/GT2535/GTRS(GT2871R 52T) make slightly more power than even a very close spec Garrett market turbocharger .

I remember seeing a bush bearing turbo at Turbologic some years ago that used I think the same turbine and it had a "T3" flanged Garrett housing on it . Have to look closer into this as it may have the same turbine housing as that early HKS one in your pics .

If this is the case we may have stumbled upon the critical thing that allows us to mount GT28BB Garrett marketed turbos on RB engines and save a few bucks over expensive HKS units .

If there are any part numbers cast into that turbine housing of yours can you let me know and I'll chase it up .

Cheers A .

Hey, very interesting to read, thanks for the info.

I found some numbers, let us know if they mean anything :mellow:

img1754mediumvt7.th.jpgimg1762mediumqv8.th.jpg

img1760mediumci2.th.jpgimg1765mediumqc0.th.jpg

The numbers on the side say something like;

M3

67

H4

558

Hey Rekin, as i said on NS.com im using the exact same turbo currently on my RB20, i bought it as a HKS T3G turbo with the stock cast dump pipe to suit it, bolted straight up to my RB20 and is making some very decent power on my engine with minimal lag for a RB20. Mine still has the ID plate on the turbo, i can get the numbers off it tonight if that will help anyone?

Hey, Would you happen to have a part/model number for the dump pipe?

If i can get a number, i could probably chase one up through HKS etc

Thanks :rant:

Something I forgot to mention was that generally Ball Bearing type "GT28" style turbine housings have six holes and bolts to clamp the crab plates onto the turbos center section (bearing housing) .

From what I can see yours has four and that sometimes means it's of a bush bearing type turbocharger , they possibly interchange so that could be one answer .

I'll have to look into the old TA/TB34 series turbos to see if they used that housing .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...