Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi everyone

some of you might be familier with this topic http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/bu....html&st=20 posted quite a few years ago...and still very helpfull.....basicily it talks about what you should do when you are looking to buy a skyline

anyway one of the points says "The BLUE Nissan Build Plate should have the details PRINTED on it... i.e. If you run your fingers over the details printed on it, it should be smooth. IT SHOULD NOT BE ENGRAVED... If it's engraved, it has a fake Nissan Build Plate with a fake Chassis Number. These are forged and put on stolen cars with a new and legitimate chassis number. "

i checked mine...i have the plastic rivit things...and i ran my fingure over it and its engraved!!!...i pretty sure my car isnt a rebuilld....its been through the works on the legal side...also i got it from edward lees imports dealership...i jsut want other r34 owners to go and check ther blue plates...run ur fingure over it...and please tell me that its slightly engraved!!!

another guy posted a reply on the second page of that topic i linked above and said that he went to a dealership and check 3 other r32's and they all had engraved plates....and asked wether the smooth thing applied only to the r33's....and no one answerd him :S

so now im freaking out:P and i wants some closure!! Help me R34 owners.....unfortunaly i dont have a handfull of r34's lieing around so i cant go and check hehe

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok this is starting to freak me out....a guy just pm's me saying that he got his r34 from lee's and his plate is engraved.....

ill give some more info my car is a 1998 r34 25gt non turbo (im a p plater:P)

the guy above me has a GTT not sure wat year... soooo im hope that the non turbo 1998 come with engravings....or else this could be really bad for me...

ok this is starting to freak me out....a guy just pm's me saying that he got his r34 from lee's and his plate is engraved.....

ill give some more info my car is a 1998 r34 25gt non turbo (im a p plater:P)

the guy above me has a GTT not sure wat year... soooo im hope that the non turbo 1998 come with engravings....or else this could be really bad for me...

Mines a 98 model and yes i don't believe it had 45000km on it when i 1st bought it. Steering wheel and gear knob was very warn.

I've come to live with the fact that any skylines imported from japan does not have genuine KM's, like maybe some do if you can monitor the whole thing from start to finish.

I still need to check my timing belt which is supposedly done at 100 000KM's, i just gotta wait until i reach 100 000kms

Mines a 98 model and yes i don't believe it had 45000km on it when i 1st bought it. Steering wheel and gear knob was very warn.

I've come to live with the fact that any skylines imported from japan does not have genuine KM's, like maybe some do if you can monitor the whole thing from start to finish.

I still need to check my timing belt which is supposedly done at 100 000KM's, i just gotta wait until i reach 100 000kms

yea but see....wer talking about diffrent things.....ur talking about odo tampering....but ur car...according to the link i posted in 1st reply....has a genuine blue build plate...where as mine and the guy that pm'd me seem to have fake ones.....my car is perfect btw....it had 68,000 when i baught it...and no wear and tear on the inside of the car....absolutly perfect...same with engine and paint and everything grade a import..or wtvr the grading systen is for jap imorts....but im still freaked out because if i want to sell this thing...and it is a rebuild/rebirth...wtf am i going to do!!

yea but see....wer talking about diffrent things.....ur talking about odo tampering....but ur car...according to the link i posted in 1st reply....has a genuine blue build plate...where as mine and the guy that pm'd me seem to have fake ones.....my car is perfect btw....it had 68,000 when i baught it...and no wear and tear on the inside of the car....absolutly perfect...same with engine and paint and everything grade a import..or wtvr the grading systen is for jap imorts....but im still freaked out because if i want to sell this thing...and it is a rebuild/rebirth...wtf am i going to do!!

I mentioned it cos they normally interrelate and that its something to look out for.

In your case well need more replies from non turbo's.

Hang in there mate just gotta wait for the replies

I mentioned it cos they normally interrelate and that its something to look out for.

In your case well need more replies from non turbo's.

Hang in there mate just gotta wait for the replies

yea i know...i need to chillax a bit...breath and all that jazz...i just love my car so much <3...atleast i can be thankfull that it works great....and it looks like its 2 years old....

Yea it did man..and we both checked in...me and the guy above ur post....it all matched up thankfully

Just to confirm: yes it all lines up. :thumbsup:

But I like a few others here I also have my suspicions about the build plate not being laminated.

i pm'd the guy that 1st asked about the blue plate being engraved and if it only applied to the r33(hes located on the second page of the thread link i posted in my 1st post)....and he said it that the engraved blue plates that are supposed to be fake only applies to the r33's......soo what is now confusing me even more....didnt know it cud get any more confused.....is that i have r33's telling me that ther plates are engraved.....which is supposably the fake ones...and then i have r34's telling me they have smooth ones…..when the engraved things shudnt apply!! and also i have 2 ppl including myself who have r34's with engraved.......

whats going on!!!

i hope someone can read this and shed some light...or just more ppl checking ther blue plates so we can start getting some consistencies

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...