Jump to content
SAU Community

Std Boost Gauge Not Working

R3sp3ct

By R3sp3ct,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Mayhaps jst the ziptie at either end and it has blown off/come loose, or as stated above youve lost presure through a split/break. As it is zero you likely will not hear it. Just replace the whole line, be done with it.

Frink Veteran

Frink

Posted
Posted

Hey Steve, how ya doing? :thumbsup: long time no see....

Mayhaps jst the ziptie at either end and it has blown off/come loose, or as stated above youve lost presure through a split/break. As it is zero you likely will not hear it. Just replace the whole line, be done with it.

Agree with all of the above.... Is the gauge still moving like normal, only to read 0 at full boost? If so, then it does sound like you have a split in the line. If you have an aftermarket boost gauge, then just disconnect the standard gauge as you'll probably almost never use. However, if you don't have an aftermarket gauge, then you'll need to find the leak and repair it. Even though the standard gauge isn't the best for an accurate reading of pressure, it is still however a good indication that the turbo is making boost.

Either way, the problem should be dealt with, as even a small boost leak can upset the ECU and other sensors which in turn will affect the way that your car generally runs. The other thing to remember is that over time, the split in the line will only get bigger, therefore becoming a bigger problem....

R3sp3ct Experienced

R3sp3ct

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey Steve, how ya doing? :P long time no see....

Agree with all of the above.... Is the gauge still moving like normal, only to read 0 at full boost? If so, then it does sound like you have a split in the line. If you have an aftermarket boost gauge, then just disconnect the standard gauge as you'll probably almost never use. However, if you don't have an aftermarket gauge, then you'll need to find the leak and repair it. Even though the standard gauge isn't the best for an accurate reading of pressure, it is still however a good indication that the turbo is making boost.

Either way, the problem should be dealt with, as even a small boost leak can upset the ECU and other sensors which in turn will affect the way that your car generally runs. The other thing to remember is that over time, the split in the line will only get bigger, therefore becoming a bigger problem....

Not to bad Luke, yourself? I've been really busy and my car is still stock but things should slowly start happening.

My boost gauge stays on 0 all the time when driving. Where exactly should I be looking for this leak???? There is a little black hose about 5 mil across which connects to the rear of the plenum that has cracked before but seems fine now.......

R3sp3ct Experienced

R3sp3ct

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey Steve,

If you remember where I live you can bring it to my place this weekend and I'll have a good look at it for you, I have heaps of vaccum hose that we can use if you need it.

Cheers mate :D

Mick

Hey Mick!

Lol I have no idea and I'll be in Sydney till sunday. I may have to take up your offer next weekend if I can't find the problem.....

r33skylinegtst Mentor

r33skylinegtst

Posted
Posted

If it's an issue with the cluster itself i've had dealings with Premier Instruments in Dickson. Top service and pretty good prices; didn't charge me a cent to look at a stuffed tacho.

If you need a replacement though i've got a stock tacho+boost guage. Tacho is stuffed but the boost guage works, may be able to swap them round? PM me if you end up needing one.

R3sp3ct Experienced

R3sp3ct

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I fixed it! The line running from the back of the plenum was snapped off at one end and the other had a huge split. I put it all back together and it works fine :blink: I think ill need a new hose though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rb26/30 build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • MBS206
      Nismo rear spats

      By MBS206 · Posted

      No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Butters
      Rb26/30 build

      By Butters · Posted

      Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26/30 build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • lilley's gtr
      Rb26/30 build

      By lilley's gtr · Posted

      I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...