Jump to content
SAU Community

S15 Or Rx7

GR33 vous

By GR33 vous,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

GR33 vous Enthusiast

GR33 vous

Posted
Posted

I've just sold my skyline and looking at either a s15 or FD rx7. I love the agressive look of the rx7 but i've been told they are thirsty as and the engine is unreliable but have no experience with them myself. I like the look of s15 and parts for the sr20 are availiable in bulk. Like some feedback especially from anyone that has an rx7, I know I'm probably better off posting on aus rotar or something like that but of course they will say the rotar is the best

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239038-s15-or-rx7/
Share on other sites
r32line Mentor

r32line

Posted
Posted

RX7 twin turbo's need rebuilds at least every 100,000km I heard, so they can be very expensive car to run. But they also look INSANELY hot! And are much rarer. For a mint RX7 though you would be looking at a lot more than a nice s15.

S15's make good power pretty easily, can look really nice and are very reliable if looked after!

So depends on your budget, and what you want the car for.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239038-s15-or-rx7/#findComment-4177086
Share on other sites
000DNK Proficient

000DNK

Posted
Posted

my mate had a rx7 and because he loved the look of them so much he ended up doing a engine conversion just because he was sick of fixing the engine that was in it. Rare to get them thou as most can only be imported and used on tracks...thats what i heard at least

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239038-s15-or-rx7/#findComment-4177134
Share on other sites
marchGTR Collaborator

marchGTR

Posted
Posted

I currently own an FD RX7 after having owned only nissan's for past 9 years (s13,s15,gtst& gtr's).

my answer is it depends on what you want it for.... IMO you can use the rx-7 as a daily if your not driving very long dist & if your not over 6''1-6''2 (without having seat rails modified).

they are better on petrol than a GTR if you drive both cars easily although not as good as the s15..... performance between an s15 & rx7 is worlds apart...rx7 is better in everyway possible...rx7 is more comparable to a gtr.

I use my car 2-3 times a week & have a shitbox for the other days...I could use the rx7 everyday although like a gtr it feels wasted plonking around in traffic.... thus far I have had no issues with reliability.

the main catch is that a good rx7 (00-02) rs model will set you back a good 30g or so...s15 prob closer to 20g.

send me a pm if you have any other questions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239038-s15-or-rx7/#findComment-4177448
Share on other sites
GR33 vous Enthusiast

GR33 vous

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have been looking at importing my own rx7 and found a couple I am keen on. My budget would be around 30K just buying the car. I have seen good low km s15's for around the 20-22k mark where as the rx7 I have my eye on would be much closer to the 30k. I currently have a company car so whatever I get it wouldn't be driven that much at the moement anyway. But I won't work at my current job forever. Very tough decision but to me the rx7 is just a mean car even in a reletively standard form. To be honest I have never taken either car for a test drive so i will definately have to do that before I make any sort of decision. All the info and or opinions are much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239038-s15-or-rx7/#findComment-4177470
Share on other sites
babyskyline Grand Master

babyskyline

Posted
Posted
my mate had a rx7 and because he loved the look of them so much he ended up doing a engine conversion just because he was sick of fixing the engine that was in it. Rare to get them thou as most can only be imported and used on tracks...thats what i heard at least

rx7's are not as rare as you think. Series 6,7 were sold here in australia and cost a fair bit compared to imported serie 8 rx7's. There are heaps of them in the country now and can easily be imported if you cant find what you want here in australia. The ones you would be mainly thinking of are the series 6,7 that can only be imported for track cars as they were sold here by mazda.

I would say get the rx7. You wil have a lot more fun in a rx7 than a s15. They are reliable when looked after and maintained properly ie warmed up and cooled down properly. They are awesome cars to drive and modify and can make big horse power for small engines. And since you wont be using it as a daily driver you wont have to worry so much about fuel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239038-s15-or-rx7/#findComment-4177541
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...