Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Are there many more differences in comparrison between the v spec and v spec 2? Iron chef ill be looking out for your R on the roads in Adelaide, looks mad. Ill be in my recently imported V spec 2!

V-Spec - Lower ride height, firmer suspension, front and rear air defusers under the car to allow the air to flow smoothly under the car.

V-Spec II - Same as above with even more firmer suspension, larger disk brakes for the rear and carbon fibre bonnet with NACA duct to feed air to the engine bay.

Also different on the V-Spec II was an iridium center console and aluminium pedals. The seats were also made with black cloth rather than the gray cloth used on previous R34 GT-R models, and the amber turn lenses were replaced with white versions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239683-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4222132
Share on other sites

V-Spec - Lower ride height, firmer suspension, front and rear air defusers under the car to allow the air to flow smoothly under the car.

V-Spec II - Same as above with even more firmer suspension, larger disk brakes for the rear and carbon fibre bonnet with NACA duct to feed air to the engine bay.

Also different on the V-Spec II was an iridium center console and aluminium pedals. The seats were also made with black cloth rather than the gray cloth used on previous R34 GT-R models, and the amber turn lenses were replaced with white versions.

+1 on the black interior; so much better than grey

oh also 2 extra sensors on the MFD: exhaust and air temps

+ active lsd's and a little sticker on the back

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239683-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4223907
Share on other sites

+1 V Spec II. See my gallery for a few pics. :)

I would have got an M-Spec Nur, if I could (in Millenium Jade!) I would have liked a Midnight Purple one, as well, but Bayside Blue is pretty awesome!! I was going to have this one re-trimmed in leather, but spent money on other things instead- :banana: (Do Luck side skirts and carbon rear wing stays, Nismo rear quarter pods, carbon rear wing flap, a few engine bolt on goodies, Enkeis, etc.)

There are at least two other R34 GTR V Spec IIs in Perth that I know of and one M Spec Nur (Marcus R34).

I still look back at mine when I leave it in the car park .... ....

Cheers. :)

Edited by MLCrisis
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239683-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4234059
Share on other sites

MP I came out only on the 33 GTR models

MP II was released Jan 1999 as a limited run of 300 the same month 34 GTR's were first introduced

MP III was released Jan 2000 as a limited run of apparantly 187 this colour was not available on the 2nd series GTR's v-spec II etc as the second series was not introduced until oct 2000 all MP II and III were based on first series 34 GTR's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239683-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4238125
Share on other sites

Is it Bayside Blue? I was sitting behind an unregistered one at a car wash last Friday night.

Id have to say quite possibly, being that there arent that many v spec 2's and highly unlikely for there to be another unregistered! What were you in, if it was another import i would remember.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239683-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4238399
Share on other sites

Unless he's changed the bonnet, this looks like a V-Spec II in MP III

l_5cbfbf62ad03a092b43472d08bb871b2.jpg

Also out of all the auctions i've seen, I have never come across a 1999 MP II. All of them have been in 2000, including mine.

And another thing, isnt this a MP I?

pic0000.jpg

the v-spec II with the z tune fenders is not a nissan colour it has been resprayed the second photo looks like MPIIpost-277-1225742770_thumb.jpg this is MPII

post-277-1225742956_thumb.jpgthis is MPIII

post-277-1225743091_thumb.jpgand this is MPI on the 33 GTR's

post up a pic of your car if it is one of the MP colours and a 2000 model it would be MPIII and have a look at the colour code on the build plate

Edited by gtr13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239683-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4238769
Share on other sites

I came through just behind you. I live around the corner from there.

Will have to keep an eye out and say hi next time i see you, im from around that area also. So do you drive your R much, would love to see it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239683-r34-gtr/page/2/#findComment-4239560
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...