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Will R34 fit on the 32? I got a lockbar on so don't need them, although the arms are still on my car...

cheers but id guess they are different. ive had an isc lockbar for 3 months but i just been to slack to fit it!

34 lockbar won't fit 32.

Try Japanese Performance Centre in Osborne Park (9201 0400 I think).

P.S. So what did you hit?

P.P.S. Throw a lockbar in there :)

got the lock bar already. damn i regret not fitting it months ago... it got a bit confusing with the whole hydrolic lines bizzo... i was planning on just plugging the 2 lines at the back but i kept reading conflicting diy's on a few forums with having to remove the whole system from the front or looping the lines at the back (also there's no fun in paying someone to do it) so i put it on the back burner.

An unpright curb was the culprit, pulled it back around enough to washed off speed but the rear wheel hit nice and square and came out ok.

I removed most of the suspension and dropped the exh to have a good look at the diff, running gear and main structural areas of the subframe, measured it all up best i could and inspected all the welds and looks fine.

got the lock bar already. damn i regret not fitting it months ago... it got a bit confusing with the whole hydrolic lines bizzo... i was planning on just plugging the 2 lines at the back but i kept reading conflicting diy's on a few forums with having to remove the whole system from the front or looping the lines at the back (also there's no fun in paying someone to do it) so i put it on the back burner.

An unpright curb was the culprit, pulled it back around enough to washed off speed but the rear wheel hit nice and square and came out ok.

I removed most of the suspension and dropped the exh to have a good look at the diff, running gear and main structural areas of the subframe, measured it all up best i could and inspected all the welds and looks fine.

You don't have to remove all the stuff to the front. I didn't when I first put my lockbar in, you just loop the lines back on themselves. When I last had the motor out I took the opportunity to remove the lines to the front along with the big solenoid thingo in the engine bay.

hicas lock bar FTW, ive some problems with my hicas too. .. the light comes on and off now and then and i lose my power steering .. its a real pain .. sob sob .

Can't help there.. 33 systems are different. Things like fitting aftermarket steering wheels can affect hicas (if it's not on straight or you've damaged teh steering angle sensor). In a 32 that would be more speedo cable related but 33's have electronic senders and the HICAS isn't hydraulically controlled.

Anyone have any tips on getting the alignment arms from the hicas off the wheel hub assembly??

i've tried everything i can, different angles, pryed, supported wheel hub at different heights and beat the bajeasus out of it to try and knock it off the damn thing.

the good arm has been removed totally from the hicas and even then i still cant get that one off the ball joint thing...

You don't have to remove all the stuff to the front. I didn't when I first put my lockbar in, you just loop the lines back on themselves. When I last had the motor out I took the opportunity to remove the lines to the front along with the big solenoid thingo in the engine bay.

just with standard hydraulic hose and clamps?

was told recently the pressure was too great and i would need pirtek to make up some high pressure fixings or something to hold the hose on.

just with standard hydraulic hose and clamps?

was told recently the pressure was too great and i would need pirtek to make up some high pressure fixings or something to hold the hose on.

I just reused a bit of rubber hose and clamps that were already located somewhere on the power steering circuit, can't remember exactly where.

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