Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, i get a rattling sound -I think its coming from my exhaust- at about 40k's.. when im revving it.....

when its on neutral it doesnt make the sound, only when im driving... i recently got my cat converter replaced so its not that, my muffler replaced (i thought it was that but it wasnt) so now i have no idea what it is and my mechanic doesnt know either.. any ideas? thanks

You would think itd be something like that, theres not much else it could be if its comming from lower areas near the exhaust :S

You said you replaced the cat and wasnt that, did they check the piping from the extractors etc? maybe something isn't holding/stuck there.

But the word rattling in general is quite broad without hearing the noise for ourselves...is it a deep rattling noise? A tinny rattling?

I don't know much myself but if it doesn't happen when your idling but happens around 40km/h and continues it could just be that a section of piping is loose and not held in place properly, and when more pressure is passing through, the noise therefore occurs??

I could be waaaay off the mark. Goodluck hope you get it resolved soon!

mines doing the same aswell and its a r33 like all of you, i sware it comes from the gear box........

i think it is bearings somewhere that are worn down?

the sound and where its coming from sounds like a bearing, are all of you getting the same rattle from the gearbox thats really deep at 1500rpm and once it hits 2000rpm its more of a quiet tin rattling sound then stops after 2000rpm.

anyone confirm that they think its bearings now

yeah. sounds like a deep rattle O_O it sounds like its coming from the exhaust to me (but it aint cos i got it checked out) Anyone HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO FIX MORE IMPORTANTLY? aNYONE KNOW? APPROX?

I'm getting the exact same problem in my R33 SI GTS-T..

I just finished installing a FMIC (which was a bitch, damn clamps flying off) and only just started noticing it now that I'm listening extra carefully..

I did some diagnostic and noticed that if I push my clutch in while it's rattling the rattling immediately stops. I was in second gear, stock ECU.

Edited by Alinys

if it stops when you put the clutch in it could be the trust bearing but id be dam soprised if you could hear that making noise while ur actually driving! when sitting there ideling you can normally pick it because it will sound like something mechanical rattling around and when you push the clutch in it stops.

but i doubt it would be a thrust bearing.

changing the clutch and all components of the clutch soon (after my 50thou rebuild is back together in a week :P ) so ill soon be able to see if it helped me or if its a problem that nothing to do with manual and auto differences. it might be the cat r the muffler because there relatively close to the gearbox to be mistaken because its just a crazy noise =\

i got the same problems, with the stock muffler it was loud on take off. it rattle hard.

thought it was a broken muffler so i got a a cannon it was still there wasnt that loud tho. i was thinking it was the cat or the resonant

seriously its going to be the clutch or gearbox. THE SOUND IS A DEAD BEARING!!!!!!! thrust bearing probity auto or manual i guess its got to be the same component, that is if were are getting that noise that we all say we have. someone take phone and record it. my car has no engine in it at the moment because of mods so i cant :)

thrust bearing probity auto or manual i guess its got to be the same component

I think you will find that only manuals have a thrust bearing as it only works when with the clutch, i know the noise im talking about is not the thrust bearing as that is making a different noise :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...