Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When you get into a crash, the carbon can shatter and do more damage if u hit someone.
I think there are a couple carbon fibre bonnets that are ADR'd which might involve them being laminated so when an object hits them they don't fragment into little ninja stars
cf gets nasty. when have a head-on it splinters into little javelins travelling a squillion k's an hour in every direction. bad.

Not sure where you guys are getting your information from, but carbon fibre is not a mythical fabric weave that all of sudden destroys anything in its path when it breaks. The actual carbon fibre itself does not do any damage, its more often the clear coat on top that has stuck to the carbon which will cause minor splintoring. Depending on the construction type (I'm assuming wet lay-up which most carbon items like hoods and bootlids are made from) will have the same properties as fibreglass when it's crushed or hit with force. You also need to consider that almost all hoods on today's market are not really made entirely of carbon fibre. They are a fibreglass skeleton with only a single layer of carbon on the top. You should also remember that all of the top motorsport categories like F1 and high end sports cars use carbon fibre (or a carbon/kevlar mix) to construct their chassis.

Not sure where you guys are getting your information from, but carbon fibre is not a mythical fabric weave that all of sudden destroys anything in its path when it breaks. The actual carbon fibre itself does not do any damage, its more often the clear coat on top that has stuck to the carbon which will cause minor splintoring. Depending on the construction type (I'm assuming wet lay-up which most carbon items like hoods and bootlids are made from) will have the same properties as fibreglass when it's crushed or hit with force. You also need to consider that almost all hoods on today's market are not really made entirely of carbon fibre. They are a fibreglass skeleton with only a single layer of carbon on the top. You should also remember that all of the top motorsport categories like F1 and high end sports cars use carbon fibre (or a carbon/kevlar mix) to construct their chassis.

and this means....... it still shatters and stabs you like a gazillion javlins lol..... and that they are still defectable???? also don't trust that something is ADR approved, trust me when i say there are heaps of fake ADR shit going around..... especially in bike and race car helmets..... also i have never come across an adr aproved carbon bonnet either..... has anyone actually seen one that is legit????

and this means....... it still shatters and stabs you like a gazillion javlins lol..... and that they are still defectable???? also don't trust that something is ADR approved, trust me when i say there are heaps of fake ADR shit going around..... especially in bike and race car helmets..... also i have never come across an adr aproved carbon bonnet either..... has anyone actually seen one that is legit????

No it doesn't shatter and turn into little tiny javelins. Having broken carbon items myself I can tell you that this really is a myth.

Also helmets come under the Australian Standard (AS/NZS1698) not ADR.

and this means....... it still shatters and stabs you like a gazillion javlins lol..... and that they are still defectable???? also don't trust that something is ADR approved, trust me when i say there are heaps of fake ADR shit going around..... especially in bike and race car helmets..... also i have never come across an adr aproved carbon bonnet either..... has anyone actually seen one that is legit????

this shattering flying shards thing is not really accurate. the main problem with most carbon bonnets not meeting ADRs is to do with pedestrian safety. normal bonnets are designed to absorb the impact of a pedestrian you hit. carbon or fibreglass bonnets wont behave in the same way under those conditions. yes another small danger is it can brake at the mounts and end up like a flying disk, or it can break into sharp pieces but the big one is the pedestrian safety.

and this means....... it still shatters and stabs you like a gazillion javlins lol..... and that they are still defectable???? also don't trust that something is ADR approved, trust me when i say there are heaps of fake ADR shit going around..... especially in bike and race car helmets..... also i have never come across an adr aproved carbon bonnet either..... has anyone actually seen one that is legit????

I think Blits bodykits in QLD make ADR approved ones.

No it doesn't shatter and turn into little tiny javelins. Having broken carbon items myself I can tell you that this really is a myth.

Also helmets come under the Australian Standard (AS/NZS1698) not ADR.

i know the difference between AS and ADR..... but there the same to forge lol

  • 2 weeks later...

does anyone know where to get a plain carbon bonnet???? one with minimal vents in it??? for an r33 all i seem to find are stupid ones with massive air vents in them that look like they'd drown my coils in water if i left the car in the rain for a day.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...