Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

206kW was the "gentlemans agreement" between all jap car manufacturer's. So cars like gtr, evo supra's etc all will quote 206kW. But guess what...

I have heard that the R34 GTR was released claiming it had 206 Kw. But when they places it on the dyno, it actually had 244Kw, is that true?

Or 280HP but truly had 327 HP!?!

I have heard that the R34 GTR was released claiming it had 206 Kw. But when they places it on the dyno, it actually had 244Kw, is that true?

Or 280HP but truly had 327 HP!?!

I read that too, on Wikipedia tho and I don't really count Wiki as solid info.

would seem that the gentlemans agreement was more to be 'kind' to the opposing car manufacturers; Japanese culture is very different to western business and seems to include more morals and integrity.

Same as the new GTR; no-one knows how much power it really makes as every engine is different.

An RB26 would definitely make over 240kw standard; thats without any mods

i'm sure someone will correct me here, as i've never owned a GTR (or looked inside a standard one), but i read somewhere Nissan were kind enough to mark the restrictor in the boost control line so it was easy to remove, thus returning the engine to it's intended power.

yes the boost restrictor is marked on the line. I have owned quite a few GTRs now. 32, 33 and 34 and have had a standard 32, standard 33 and standard 34. I would agree they do have more than 206kw at the engine standard, but I don't think it's 240 or 260, I would say around 210-220 for 32s about 220 for 33s and about 230-235 for 34s. but what they really did was add a couple of basic resitrctions to bring the cars fown to the 206kw limit. so with a free flowing exhaust and 4 pounds more boost you get great gains. an extra 30-40kws just with those mods.

well that's kind of an individual choice! but personally yeah I think it's ok. providing you get the car checked on the dyno when you remove it. check the AFR, knock, and boost level. providing the boost is not going past 14psi and the AFR is ok and there is no knock then go for it. enjoy some free power. just be aware that any 32 with standard turbos is a bit of hit and miss. some will blow a turbo even at standard boost. some will live for years and years on 15psi with no problems. so if we are talking R32 (or even R33 really) then do it at your own risk!

  • 1 month later...

Ben at RacePace put my 100% stock R34 GTR on his dyno and it made 211 rwkw. I fitted a HKS cat back and boost has now hit 1.2 bar, so I'm guessing it makes a bit more now.

The 211rwkw figure was made with stock airbox and panel filter, shitty compliance cat, stock exhaust, 180km restricted. The motor had 59,000kms on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...