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Wanting To Wind Up Boost

blitz r33
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Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted

why not buy a second hand cooler from a ford xr6 turbo; the geometry of the end tanks make it able to utilize the stock pipes.

Painting it black and you will have something very stealthy and provide the cooling u need.

FATAZZ Grand Master

FATAZZ

Posted
Posted
get an 34gtt cooler, its bigger and a direct swap. dont pay too much for it though.

What he said ^^^ will hold you over till 220rwkw roughly.

bout $200-$250 and remember to clean it before install.

50/50 kero and water is what i used.gets heaps of black stuff out.

INVRTD Proficient

INVRTD

Posted
Posted

^+1 for the cleaning, i cintend to clean mine once every year or so (dont drive my girl much) and i have black pipes to, they never even mention it,

you wont make over 200 with 10psi so this set up would be fine unless oyu get a aftermarket Turbo

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted
why not buy a second hand cooler from a ford xr6 turbo; the geometry of the end tanks make it able to utilize the stock pipes.

Painting it black and you will have something very stealthy and provide the cooling u need.

That's a brilliant idea..

I saw some really awesome guy selling one on these forums earlier..

here it is..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Xr...ic-t240308.html

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Forget the hype in this thread.

The stock cooler will be fine. Its not 'ideal', but then rarely in the world do you get ideal everything? :cheers:

It wont kill the motor or anything like that. It'll just result in a little less power.

If you go for more boost, bigger turbo etc, then id change it but 10psi, it'll be fine. Id be more worried about the ECU having a fit, although warmer climate you should be ok

A GT-t cooler is a good swap-over upgrade if you do plan on a bit more, retaining factory position and legalities for the most part as you'll never get pinned for a mild upgrade like that

HEKT1K Grand Master

HEKT1K

Posted
Posted
Forget the hype in this thread.

The stock cooler will be fine. Its not 'ideal', but then rarely in the world do you get ideal everything? :)

It wont kill the motor or anything like that. It'll just result in a little less power.

If you go for more boost, bigger turbo etc, then id change it but 10psi, it'll be fine. Id be more worried about the ECU having a fit, although warmer climate you should be ok

A GT-t cooler is a good swap-over upgrade if you do plan on a bit more, retaining factory position and legalities for the most part as you'll never get pinned for a mild upgrade like that

Nismoid you save me more and more money every day :cheers:

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted
lol.....hey so do these units fit without me chopping my reo bar or even my stock spec M bar? would be interested if it did.

yeh they do.

you (or the person installing the cooler) would need to make a few mounting brackets and bolt them to the reo to hold the cooler in place, and then the remaining piping obviously... but that's is it.

a couple of holes in to the reo to hold the cooler in place is all that needs cutting (well drilling).

blitz r33 Collaborator

blitz r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Forget the hype in this thread.

The stock cooler will be fine. Its not 'ideal', but then rarely in the world do you get ideal everything? :D

It wont kill the motor or anything like that. It'll just result in a little less power.

If you go for more boost, bigger turbo etc, then id change it but 10psi, it'll be fine. Id be more worried about the ECU having a fit, although warmer climate you should be ok

A GT-t cooler is a good swap-over upgrade if you do plan on a bit more, retaining factory position and legalities for the most part as you'll never get pinned for a mild upgrade like that

i'll be getting the R-34 GT-T cooler which was recommended but what do you mean i should be more worried about my ECU having a fit?would winding the boost screw around with my ECU?

do i have to get a aftermarket ECU and get it tuned cause i wouldnt want to do anything to my baby which might mess it up.

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

anything below 10 psi usually seems to be fine.

sometimes 10psi and usually anything over that causes the ecu to go in to a rich and retard state.

basically to you it means when you floor it and the revs get to about 4500rpm, it feels like it cuts out or misfires or loses power etc.

it's not nice.

a remap ($350+ ) is the cheapest option to resolve this..

search for thread by user TOSHI for remap info.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Nismoid you save me more and more money every day :D

Good to hear :)

Spend some of that saved money in a SAU-Vic membership ;)

i'll be getting the R-34 GT-T cooler which was recommended but what do you mean i should be more worried about my ECU having a fit?would winding the boost screw around with my ECU?

do i have to get a aftermarket ECU and get it tuned cause i wouldnt want to do anything to my baby which might mess it up.

Ye as GTS-T said - he covered most of it.

Its hard to say as every car and ECU seems to behave differently.

Simply put, if you do start to get a flatspot around 4500rpm, then just back the boost off 1psi at a time till it goes away and you'll get around it that way.

You can also setup a waterspray kit too for the GT-t cooler. There is a DIY Guide on how to do it and i believe costs less than $80 :)

How much benefits it has however is debateable, but in a hotter climate i could see potential use more so than a cooler one

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