Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

Finally received my Stagea after 2 months, just in love with my new toy. Only found out this arvo that it has automatic headlights... I was in heaven. :rofl:

It is doing something very weird though. It stalls occasionally and I can't really figure out a patern yet. The engine runs smooth and idles well. It would stall randomly when the car comes to a stop. It doesn't happen all the time but happens often enough to be a concern. Anyone has any idea that might save me a trip to the mechenics?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/
Share on other sites

Hi All

Finally received my Stagea after 2 months, just in love with my new toy. Only found out this arvo that it has automatic headlights... I was in heaven. :rofl:

It is doing something very weird though. It stalls occasionally and I can't really figure out a patern yet. The engine runs smooth and idles well. It would stall randomly when the car comes to a stop. It doesn't happen all the time but happens often enough to be a concern. Anyone has any idea that might save me a trip to the mechenics?

Cheers.

I have a similar problem with my M35. It only happens when in 2nd or 3rd and brake quickly to a stop. The solution I have used for the moment is to push it back into D before I stop and I do not have the problem.

I have asked my dealer and they suggested it may be related to the spark plugs nearing the end of their life (I have 70k on the clock). Not rushing this solution as it only stalls occasionally driven this way.

Will be interested to hear if anyone has any other suggestions.

Cheers

Andy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4204174
Share on other sites

Well this might be completely wrong, but I had the same trouble with my series 2, tiptronic auto, and it was a transmission fault. One of the two main shift solenoids (which I think controls hydraulic fluid flow) and a hydraulic pressure regulator, both part of the same component pretty much, were faulty and caused random stalling when I came to a stop. Engine ran fine otherwise. It wasn't happening right as I stopped but abo9ut a half second or so after. If you have an auto trans problem then a good auto trans specialist might be able to diagnose it from a test; don't know if this trouble extends to the M35 or not but it is common on series 2/R34.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4204250
Share on other sites

Thanks for your replies. :rofl:

Andy: I am not sure if my situation is identical, although it does sound like we are having simmilar problems. I don't drive in tiptronic mode, so the car is stalling in D, but what you describe (in gear 2 or 3 the coming to a stop) does sound very much like what I am going through, although I don't know the exact gear I am in when I stall, it would appear that a sudden stop from a fair speed would cause the stall. I am hoping it is the spark plugs as my car is coming up 90K and I think I will take it in for a full service. Does anybody know that the complience work include a full service? I am inclined to say no from what I can figure out.

Dave: I truly hope it's not my transmission playing up, that sounds expensive.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4204264
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Some more info for my still happening stalling problem, I have kinda found a pattern for it:

The stalling problem is much worse if:

1. The Air Con is OFF

and / or

2. The fuel level is low (last 15 litres left in tank)

What happens is when the car coming to a stop, or close to it, as the engien revs back to the normal idle Rev, it would occasionally "dip" below the idle, it would appear that then ECU then tries to pick the rev back up again when that happens. The car idles much lower however when the AC is off, so when the dip happens the car stalls before the engine can be brought back above idle. Low fuel level also causes it as well...

The car almost never stalls when the car have a good amount of fuel and the AC is on.

The fuel system have been flushed and so is the oil line.

I don't think it is the gearbox, but then I am not sure whatelse it could be...

Any ideas guys?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4230811
Share on other sites

Some more info for my still happening stalling problem, I have kinda found a pattern for it:

The stalling problem is much worse if:

1. The Air Con is OFF

and / or

2. The fuel level is low (last 15 litres left in tank)

What happens is when the car coming to a stop, or close to it, as the engien revs back to the normal idle Rev, it would occasionally "dip" below the idle, it would appear that then ECU then tries to pick the rev back up again when that happens. The car idles much lower however when the AC is off, so when the dip happens the car stalls before the engine can be brought back above idle. Low fuel level also causes it as well...

The car almost never stalls when the car have a good amount of fuel and the AC is on.

The fuel system have been flushed and so is the oil line.

I don't think it is the gearbox, but then I am not sure whatelse it could be...

Any ideas guys?

Have you had the plugs replaced at 80k? I was told that is when they are due.

My car is at 70K and is doing a similar thing but I have not related it to anything other than hard stops in 1 or 2 in manual mode.

I am pretty sure it will be the plugs but will see if I can wait the extra 10k.

I was told by Jetwreck that his cars performance improved when he replaced his plugs.

I had another odd stall the other day, the car turned all the electrics off and motor stopped as I stopped at some lights. It was like the computer or battery had a glitch and all power was lost. Has only done it the once in 1 year of owning so i will see what happens.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4230869
Share on other sites

ICV?? might need cleaning. my S15 did the same thing, sometimes stalled, i cleaned the idle control valve and it stopped happening.

when i do my plugs this weekend ill be removing everything that comes off the top of the motor and giving it a clean! hoping mine might run better too!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4230874
Share on other sites

ICV?? might need cleaning. my S15 did the same thing, sometimes stalled, i cleaned the idle control valve and it stopped happening.

when i do my plugs this weekend ill be removing everything that comes off the top of the motor and giving it a clean! hoping mine might run better too!

Night have to get you to show me where the ICV is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4231047
Share on other sites

ill bring tools to remove the plastic cover off the engine!

ill also take some pics tomorrow while im doing it

im TRYING to get a copy of nissan FAST for M35, the guy at the dealer had one yesterday but wouldnt part with it. i almost offered him money for their 'spare' disc, but today ill ask if i can make an offsite backup :(

anyway, plugs at 80k huh?? mines got 90 now and i dont think they have been touched, i rekon thats half MY problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4231081
Share on other sites

ill bring tools to remove the plastic cover off the engine!

ill also take some pics tomorrow while im doing it

im TRYING to get a copy of nissan FAST for M35, the guy at the dealer had one yesterday but wouldnt part with it. i almost offered him money for their 'spare' disc, but today ill ask if i can make an offsite backup :(

anyway, plugs at 80k huh?? mines got 90 now and i dont think they have been touched, i rekon thats half MY problem.

don't worry about the FAST. I will sort that out for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4231121
Share on other sites

really? that would be MUCH appreciated, thanks!!

if not for the part numbers, but the diagrams would make things much easier to disassemble and re-assemble.

im happy to create a torrent for people here and host it at work. i mean on my personal internet at home... yes thats what i meant.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4231139
Share on other sites

guy's...just a quick one....mine used to stall when I first got it every now and again...new plugs defiantly stopped it.

Funny about what you are saying about the change in the car with a 1/4 of a tank.....i have noticed that as well.....mine goes like shit off a stick with only quarter of a tank :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4231516
Share on other sites

thats because there is 60kg less weight in the back :)

also, as there is no TPS on the throttle (i think) so it cant be cleaned, i wonder if the sensor that controls the foot throttle input (maybe TPS also??) needs cleaning also?? there is probably a sensor on the actual throttle body too (another TPS??) unless the stepper motor on that is programmed and doesnt require input because its assumed to be correct

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4231546
Share on other sites

I thought that about the weight of fuel in the tank as well.....but then again this is quite a big difference in power.....I don't remember feeling it in other cars I have owned.

I guess this is an excuse to go and do some more 0-100km/h testing....full tank and then empty. :)

Edited by Jetwreck
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4231844
Share on other sites

there are some nissan part numbers in the M35 thread.

turns out they use a LFR6AP-9 but nissan supplied me with PLR6A-11 (apparently the same but 1.1mm gap - can be regapped) even after looking up THEIR part number and ordering that

so tomorrow ill find out if they are the correct ones when i do the swap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4232862
Share on other sites

Guys I hope you get your problem sorted and it is just something cheap like plugs. On the question of TPS... isn't the M35/V35 fly-by-wire? If so the sensor's on the accelerator pedal and hopefully it's not prone to the breakdowns the old ones in the harsh engine bay conditions used to be...

Hsusy (OP513) that sounds so much like the problem I had... this bit...

What happens is when the car coming to a stop, or close to it, as the engien revs back to the normal idle Rev, it would occasionally "dip" below the idle, it would appear that then ECU then tries to pick the rev back up again when that happens.

I found that the idle was fine, I would stop, the idle was fine, then about a half a second later the revs would dip. Sometimes it would dip just a little, sometimes not at all... sometimes the car would stall completely.

The problem causing this on mine I think was the pressure regulator in the transmission and/or the stuffed shift solenoid A; a weird situation would result (Mike at MV explained it) and the transmission would go into like a 'change gear phase' and cut ignition I guess, and stall.

It made sense to me when I considered that everything else about the engine was running fine; no problems idling and it had just received its 100,000K service (plugs, oil, adjusted idle speed, belts, power steering, everything).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4233010
Share on other sites

ok looks like our engines DONT have an ICV. sounds reasonable with drive-by-wire the computer would just adjust the throttle to compensate for load.

anyway, did plugs today and cleaned my filthy throttle body. i have pictures if anyone wants me to post?? i remember reading somewhere that VQ25DET has 4 EGO sensors. looks like only 1, which is good news because thats cheaper than 4! unless there are 3 i couldnt find or are under the car. but there is only one heat coated set of wires running towards the back of the turbo.

as for the drive-by-wire throttle sensor, my engine bay was filthy, so this may be the cause of my engine stutter at low RPM and light throttle. the plugs didnt help with that :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240720-m35-stalling/#findComment-4233882
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...