Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I know mate, it's crazy! I have the 95/98 debate all the time with my mums partner. He thinks he knows everything about anything and says "98 is just like 95"...

It's just.... stupid. But yes, some people do still believe/say/recommend this to others!!

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

it does no f**king damage!

listen to all the people that have actually done it, rather than those who think they know everything.

if your running 14 psi on a stock turbo with no bov, EXPECT the kent to blow a blade sooner or later!

i for one, ran 14 psi, on my hi flow vg30 for yonks, not a prob.

there are plenty of others out there who have the some opinion, joel for one.

f**k me.

it does no f**king damage!

listen to all the people that have actually done it, rather than those who think they know everything.

if your running 14 psi on a stock turbo with no bov, EXPECT the kent to blow a blade sooner or later!

i for one, ran 14 psi, on my hi flow vg30 for yonks, not a prob.

there are plenty of others out there who have the some opinion, joel for one.

f**k me.

well said craig

Flutter from blocked BOV = compresser wheel in the turbo suddenly spinning backwards and the sound comes through the pod filter.

turbos NEVER spin backwards! like said before, they can spin upwards to 150,000 rpm. they simple slow down and speed up depending on the boost.

correct Stevie, the air returning back through and slowing down the compressor and "chopping" the ait is what makes the vutututututu sound. Depending on pod filter design, it will be quiet or loud.

FAIL!

like said above, turbos spin at very high rpm. they dont 'chop' the air. the compressed air sits in the cooler/pipes, and as the blades slow enough, the boost pressure will drop to that rpm of the turbo. this happens graduarly as the turbo blades slow, which is why u get the tu tu noise.

and people f**king their engines/turbos with no bov. its not the lack of bov.. how stupid can u be.

I've ran mine since I can remember with a blocked off BOV.

With the ceramic turbo running 1bar I covered around 100,000km's on the rb20det, then pulled it out for the rb30det. Still in good nick. I went a VG30 which was good for another 50,000km's and was still fine when I pulled that off, the Garrett gt30 I now run still doesn't use a BOV.

The GT30r has covered around 40,000km's now. Damn time flies. :S

The bov is there for emission reasons. Without a bov look what it does to your afr's on and afm voltage as you come off the throttle which causes stalling, back fires and some times flamage. Another issues is the strain it puts on your joiners/clamps. I had to replace some with t-bolts.

The reason I went no bov is the stocker was for the part throttle drivability. No bov you grab the next gear and boost is just there. Without a bov it felt laggier on gear changes as I presume it takes longer to fill the FMIC and piping than it does to regain the 'slight' speed the compressor may loose due to pushing against a pressure source.

Shaun/Boostworx runs track cars with no bov, no issues related to no bov. I know of multiple high powered RB30et's without issues running no bov.

+1 covered around 40-50,000km with my 31 with no bov and no issues.

listen to all the people that have actually done it, rather than those who think they know everything.

f**k me.

+1

too much of this these days,

Cronic...

lol @ the ns.com thread op. His forum name suits him well. A dumhead he is. :wacko:

Again. Its primarily there for emissions and driveability. Not for performance which is exactly what I have found in my own fiddlings.

As for some one reputable that has a shit load of experience... Simon from Nizpro explains the BOV's use. http://www.nizpro.com.au/about.html

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1457/article.html

"The blow-off valve is designed as an emissions control device for OE manufacturers.
"The airflow meter is not all that smart and does not realise the air is going in the wrong direction; it therefore measures the air twice (once going into the engine and again going out in the wrong direction). The computer now tips in twice as much fuel as what's required, making it run rich - making it not pass emissions.
"Therefore, manufacturers fit a blow-off valve - or a recirculation valve as they are actually called. A recirculation valve opens when it senses manifold vacuum, returning the air trapped at the throttle body to between the airflow meter and the turbocharger. As such, the airflow meter does not take a double reading - the car now passes emissions.

There's a market out there for replacement 'high performance' bov's as people believe it 'stalls and breaks' the turbo. Don't believe those that sell and market BOV's. :)

i ran no bov on 240rwkw s13 on the track cause when i compared running a atmo one vs none at all i found i had less lag through gears under hard boost which was awsome for turn 1 :P

i was told not to run no bov running that much boost but did it anyway and the turbo out lasted the motor :P but thats an sr for you!

on my 32, im running no bov again and its still going fine. also going through heaps of crapy boring tests with the sil i found running a atmo bov the car was stauling more but im guessing the spring rate or something had something to do with that but never bothered to fix it as i like no bov at all!

also have to remember some turbo cars come out facotry without a bov like the ca18det's and i see them out lasting sr's everyday!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...