Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

good waste of time :P lol did it... car didnt run bad but revs did drop after a huge flutter... was pretty sick but y fuel economy would half if i left it there!!! soo addictable :P good for a laugh but dont wona get looked at ne more than i need to

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've ran mine since I can remember with a blocked off BOV.

With the ceramic turbo running 1bar I covered around 100,000km's on the rb20det, then pulled it out for the rb30det. Still in good nick. I went a VG30 which was good for another 50,000km's and was still fine when I pulled that off, the Garrett gt30 I now run still doesn't use a BOV.

The GT30r has covered around 40,000km's now. Damn time flies. :S

The bov is there for emission reasons. Without a bov look what it does to your afr's on and afm voltage as you come off the throttle which causes stalling, back fires and some times flamage. Another issues is the strain it puts on your joiners/clamps. I had to replace some with t-bolts.

The reason I went no bov is the stocker was for the part throttle drivability. No bov you grab the next gear and boost is just there. Without a bov it felt laggier on gear changes as I presume it takes longer to fill the FMIC and piping than it does to regain the 'slight' speed the compressor may loose due to pushing against a pressure source.

Shaun/Boostworx runs track cars with no bov, no issues related to no bov. I know of multiple high powered RB30et's without issues running no bov.

No more need to be said!!!!

  • 2 years later...

Okay, old thread here. sorry, want to blank off my bov so I dont look like a fag when I drive around. Used search came up with this and a heap of old closed threaDs that seem to make it sound like IF u blank of ur bov it just makes ur car get that other gay flutter noise not silencing it completely. Is this correct?????

you own a turbo car but dont like the bov noise? have you got an aftermarket bov?

yes, if you block it off it will flutter.

Did have an aftermarket atmospheric one when I got the car which said LOOK AT ME, then swapped the mechanic who took it through regency for me for his stock one. But its still too loud oh well guess Ill just have to put up with it in exchange for a nice fast car.

The one that was on it also made a fluttery type sound when u gave it a rev.........I dont know fark all bout them though

you probably had an adjustable one, where you can stiffen to spring so it only vents a small amount of pressure and flutters the rest. if you have a pod, try fitting a stock airbox to quieten the induction noise and see how you go

Just out of curiosity.... everyone is saying use coke cans, mountain dew cans etc. Are they being used as blanking plates? Not entirely sure how its done.

I've got a 32 with an rb20 with an aftermarket BOV. Was just wondering what the deal is with making up blanking plates and what everyone has used.

Okay, old thread here. sorry, want to blank off my bov so I dont look like a fag when I drive around. Used search came up with this and a heap of old closed threaDs that seem to make it sound like IF u blank of ur bov it just makes ur car get that other gay flutter noise not silencing it completely. Is this correct?????

As Damo has mentioned earlier. You cannot have a turbo car with a pod filter and not expect any induction noise at all. Even with the stock BOV it makes a loud woooosh sound. But if you block/blank it off all the pressure has to go somewhere and since the BOV is blocked it will just go back through the system hence why it makes the huge (in my case) flutter.

Just out of curiosity.... everyone is saying use coke cans, mountain dew cans etc. Are they being used as blanking plates? Not entirely sure how its done.

I've got a 32 with an rb20 with an aftermarket BOV. Was just wondering what the deal is with making up blanking plates and what everyone has used.

Totaly acceptable use of thread bump guys

Take your bov off grab a pen trace around it and cut coke can up a good pair of scissors is all that's needed

Presto spot on Steve. I have been using a coke can pretty much since i have ever owned the car lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...