Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

good waste of time :P lol did it... car didnt run bad but revs did drop after a huge flutter... was pretty sick but y fuel economy would half if i left it there!!! soo addictable :P good for a laugh but dont wona get looked at ne more than i need to

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've ran mine since I can remember with a blocked off BOV.

With the ceramic turbo running 1bar I covered around 100,000km's on the rb20det, then pulled it out for the rb30det. Still in good nick. I went a VG30 which was good for another 50,000km's and was still fine when I pulled that off, the Garrett gt30 I now run still doesn't use a BOV.

The GT30r has covered around 40,000km's now. Damn time flies. :S

The bov is there for emission reasons. Without a bov look what it does to your afr's on and afm voltage as you come off the throttle which causes stalling, back fires and some times flamage. Another issues is the strain it puts on your joiners/clamps. I had to replace some with t-bolts.

The reason I went no bov is the stocker was for the part throttle drivability. No bov you grab the next gear and boost is just there. Without a bov it felt laggier on gear changes as I presume it takes longer to fill the FMIC and piping than it does to regain the 'slight' speed the compressor may loose due to pushing against a pressure source.

Shaun/Boostworx runs track cars with no bov, no issues related to no bov. I know of multiple high powered RB30et's without issues running no bov.

No more need to be said!!!!

  • 2 years later...

Okay, old thread here. sorry, want to blank off my bov so I dont look like a fag when I drive around. Used search came up with this and a heap of old closed threaDs that seem to make it sound like IF u blank of ur bov it just makes ur car get that other gay flutter noise not silencing it completely. Is this correct?????

you own a turbo car but dont like the bov noise? have you got an aftermarket bov?

yes, if you block it off it will flutter.

Did have an aftermarket atmospheric one when I got the car which said LOOK AT ME, then swapped the mechanic who took it through regency for me for his stock one. But its still too loud oh well guess Ill just have to put up with it in exchange for a nice fast car.

The one that was on it also made a fluttery type sound when u gave it a rev.........I dont know fark all bout them though

you probably had an adjustable one, where you can stiffen to spring so it only vents a small amount of pressure and flutters the rest. if you have a pod, try fitting a stock airbox to quieten the induction noise and see how you go

Just out of curiosity.... everyone is saying use coke cans, mountain dew cans etc. Are they being used as blanking plates? Not entirely sure how its done.

I've got a 32 with an rb20 with an aftermarket BOV. Was just wondering what the deal is with making up blanking plates and what everyone has used.

Okay, old thread here. sorry, want to blank off my bov so I dont look like a fag when I drive around. Used search came up with this and a heap of old closed threaDs that seem to make it sound like IF u blank of ur bov it just makes ur car get that other gay flutter noise not silencing it completely. Is this correct?????

As Damo has mentioned earlier. You cannot have a turbo car with a pod filter and not expect any induction noise at all. Even with the stock BOV it makes a loud woooosh sound. But if you block/blank it off all the pressure has to go somewhere and since the BOV is blocked it will just go back through the system hence why it makes the huge (in my case) flutter.

Just out of curiosity.... everyone is saying use coke cans, mountain dew cans etc. Are they being used as blanking plates? Not entirely sure how its done.

I've got a 32 with an rb20 with an aftermarket BOV. Was just wondering what the deal is with making up blanking plates and what everyone has used.

Totaly acceptable use of thread bump guys

Take your bov off grab a pen trace around it and cut coke can up a good pair of scissors is all that's needed

Presto spot on Steve. I have been using a coke can pretty much since i have ever owned the car lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...