Jump to content
SAU Community

Another Skyline Casuality: Damn Lancers


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

A damn lancer ran into the back of me tonight. I had driven to the end of my street and was waiting at a T intersection for traffic to clear, and the lancer was sitting behind me. Was about to go but thought one car coming was moving a bit quicker so I put my foot back on the brake (hadnt moved forwards yet) and the lady behind me must have been distracted thought i was moving off and drove into the back of me.

:goddam:

My rear bumper is pushed in, and damage to my muffler i think.

Could have been worse I guess.

Oh well maybe another skyline to head to palm.

Adam.

Sorry to hear that Zombie...but I know exactly what u r going thru.....had some a-hole run up the back of my 'line a while back along King St in the city.....also not too bad just rear bumper damage and lft rear quater panel needed some panel beating. Quote was over 3k though!!!!

U shouldn't have much of a prob......I was insur'd thru Shannons at the time & they were great....didn't even need to take the car to them 4 an inspection....gave me a 'recommended' panel shop over the phone, arranged a time......skyline was fixed in under a week.....top job too. If U want the panel shops name I could probably look it up 4 ya......

Oh well maybe another skyline to head to palm.

hmmm.. i wouldn't recommend that.. mine has been there 6 weeks and counting.. I'd take it somewhere else if you want it done anytime this year. If you don't have a daily driver you could be without your car for about 2 months - serious.

Well apparently the insurer (JC) is going to handle it. All i have to do is drop the car off and pick it up. They are even going to pay for a taxi for me to get to work. So I dont know who will handle the repairs

But the repairs better be spot on else I will not be accepting it.

Adam

i suggest u request your own repairer

but iv heard JC are a prick when it comes to pay outs, the amount of profanities of heard from Con at Palm regarding Just Cars pay out policies makes me thank that im not eith em anymore

good luck with it all, hope the rear ender wasnt as bad as that other dude on the forums that thought was a little "shunt" but ended up needing jig work to straighten it up :S

Guys

where is palm? do they do a good job?

reckon we could post a list of panelbeaters that know how to repair skylines good so at least when old granny or P-plate lancer drivers decided to arse f**k us we have some reliable contacts?

zombie - u are going to get them to replace your expensive stainless steel zorst with an original one shipped directly from japan right? :)

I might have a good look at my car over the weekend to see if there was any other damage, it was a bit dark last night.

whistla: problem is i just dont have the time to run around finding quotes and stuff. I think if there looks to be further damage I think I will.

king_kw13: i actually have a Kakimoto exhaust. I think it is mild though.

We'll see I guess. Might try and get some pics tonight.

Adam

Question for you guys:

When I spoke with my insurance company i lodged a claim and gave them all of the other drivers details. They said bring your car to our assessors and they can have it all sorted for you and will do the leg work.

Should I be really using this option? or should I go get my own quotes or repairer.

Keep in mind that I have never made a claim before and hence dont know any panel shops or how this whole process works.

I just wanted the easiest and quickest way to do it

Adam

Zombie,

In my experience......the quickest and easiest route would be the insurance comp. to assess and work everything out....all u have 2 do is drop the car off and pick it up.

The best way to put ur mind at ease is the harder option.....finding reputable panel shops who have had experience fixing 'lines, talking 2 customers maybe and finding a panel beater who is obsessive 'bout getting things right!

Just rememebr quickest and easiest isn't always the best!

-ant95GTR

Ok just got the car home. The damage doesnt *look* as bad as I thought, but the boot and the left lights dont seem to fit flush anymore.

I think my number plate took the brunt of it.

The lady who hit me is actually local and I just happened to be driving along the road she lives on and saw her car parked out the front of her house. The damage to her car is probably worse than mine.

Adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...