Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I assume adriano was implying that you use what ever head ur currently running in ur skyline

So no additional cost for the head

It would be legendary to see someone do a $150 rebuild and thrash the guts out of the thing, brilliant value

its already been done. from memory they did the whole conversion for $1000 you need to use the R32 RB25DE head if you want it to be a cheap bolt off bolt on affair. the R33 head will require modification to work.

ok ive done it

wrecker bottom end $50

timming belt $55

head gasket (reused a comeic we had laying around)

vvt line $90

labour (free im a mehanic and case for the boys for helping)

bolted all the accessries on which includes a massive turbo

end results 560hp at the wheels on 19psi the car has raced and run 5x10sec passes and over 100 dyno passes it has aslo done about 3000km of street driving. you cant beat bn rb30 for value

Well bugger me! I have had a series 2 RB30e block in the shed for about 4 years, wanting to do this project..

What stopped me was I was going to add new pistons and rods.. Looks like I'm about to get busey!

I have an R33, have big turbo, have apexi have $700 in the bank!.. hmmm.. Thanks for the inspiration guys!

I will go chat with my mechanic mate on monday.

ohh, will the stock intake manifold hit the bonnet? I know this is probably covered somewhere, so can somebody give me a link or thread to go and inspire me and my mate a little further?

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was wondering about this. I'll do some research.
    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
×
×
  • Create New...