Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all..

Going over my options for my Stagea.. I'm doing too many kilometres each week.. Tomorrow I will be putting in the 5th tank of fuel in a 8 day period.. Its just crazy!!

Thinking about a manual conversion using a 6 speed manual from a R34 GTR giving me much better economy on the highway/freeway (90% of my driving) This 4 speed auto going down the M4 each day doing 3000 Rpm @ 120Kms just isn't right...

Its getting down to crunch time.. Either I have to change jobs and get a company car, sell the car and buy some fuel friendly junk heap, or modify the Stag to suit my needs..

If anyone can point me in the direction of a 6 speed manual it would be good!

Cheers,

Charlie.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241488-wtb-r34-gtr-6-speed/
Share on other sites

Hi all..

Going over my options for my Stagea.. I'm doing too many kilometres each week.. Tomorrow I will be putting in the 5th tank of fuel in a 8 day period.. Its just crazy!!

Thinking about a manual conversion using a 6 speed manual from a R34 GTR giving me much better economy on the highway/freeway (90% of my driving) This 4 speed auto going down the M4 each day doing 3000 Rpm @ 120Kms just isn't right...

Its getting down to crunch time.. Either I have to change jobs and get a company car, sell the car and buy some fuel friendly junk heap, or modify the Stag to suit my needs..

If anyone can point me in the direction of a 6 speed manual it would be good!

Cheers,

Charlie.

You could buy a lot of fuel for the thousands it would cost to buy a 6 spd Getrag let alone the cost of conversion and then your top gear rpm could still be the same. can you not find a taller diff from the Nissan line up (for say $500)?

how many km's to a tank are you getting?

You probly should be looking at the reason why you are wasting some much fuel.

You should get 450km's to a tank or more. if not.. you have a problem with the car and buying a 6 speed will not fix the issue.

why not just change the final drive? and anyway this is the wrong section. we have a section called "wanted to buy" for a reason. next time, use it.

why not just change the final drive? and anyway this is the wrong section. we have a section called "wanted to buy" for a reason. next time, use it.

Sorry, I'm not that sau savvy..

How would I go about changing the final drive? How does this work with 4WD?

Sorry, I'm not that sau savvy..

How would I go about changing the final drive? How does this work with 4WD?

Stagea final drive is 4.3, GTR is 4.11 so if you can get away with just changing the crownwheels front and rear then that might be OK. Go to the Stagea section/ DIY section/ transmissions/ to read about what is involved in changing the whole diff!

I am pretty sure that getting the 6 spd box will be ultra expensive and probably make little or no difference to your fuel consumption. My suggestions:

1. Do the full big bore exhaust from front to back (ditching the cat if legal where you are, gutting if not)

2. Put a pipercross airfilter element (PP1128-MX) in your standard airbox

3. Fit an Apexi SAFC and SITC

4. get a good tune

After this your car will go like a rocket but if you are disciplined and stick to your 120km/hr cruise you should see an improvement in your fuel consumption.

As well as (or instead of) the above you could fit 17in or 18in wheels and instead of going for an ultra low profile to maintain the same rolling circumference choose a taller profile (similar to what you have now). This will raise your gearing (and require your speedo to be recalibrated).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...