Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, got a problem I hope you could help me out with.

I was driving last night on the highway doing about 70km/h when my car just shut off and everything went dead except the headlights, even the indicators weren't working. I managed to pull up on the gutter and tried to start it but couldn't. There was crank but it wouldn't start, sort of like the battery was dead but I bought a new one couple of months back so that wouldn't be the problem. I still checked the plugs and they were fine. After leaving the car for about 10mins I tried to start it and it worked as usually so I'm wondering what would've caused this.

I got my alternator fixed a few weeks back which cost me $570, also got Splitfire coil packs and new spark plugs.

Anyone have any idea what might be the problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241632-r34-died-on-me-last-night-help/
Share on other sites

Hi, I would go back to basics and check battery terminals, battery cables and earth terminals and cables for looseness. I would load test the battery and check the charge rate from the alternator. Also i would be checking the ignition switch it sounds like the ignition switch could be open circuiting.

Hope i have been of assistance

76GTR

Hi, I would go back to basics and check battery terminals, battery cables and earth terminals and cables for looseness. I would load test the battery and check the charge rate from the alternator. Also i would be checking the ignition switch it sounds like the ignition switch could be open circuiting.

Hope i have been of assistance

76GTR

cant be battery, head lights stayed on, but the ignition sounds right, but does the engine turn off if you are driving and take out the key????

i never tried but i thought the engine kept running aslong as the revs were up??? correct me if i'm wrong, just ive seen dirt bikes run with keys falling off them wandering if its the same with lines

76gtr, i have a similar problem, my car stalls intermittently when im slowing down at intersections etc, and i recently had a turbo timer installed when i got an alarm installed, would this be a similar case? battery terminals have been checked/cleaned out etc. but i know the key shaft is a bit loose, i just find it strange that it only happens when i'm coming down through the gears and the cars at low revs.

The car IS idling below 1000, but it's been doing that for a while (just needs a service)

new coil packs and sparkplugs replaced 3000km's ago (started doing it ~700km ago

S1 R33 GTS-T

Hi, I would go back to basics and check battery terminals, battery cables and earth terminals and cables for looseness. I would load test the battery and check the charge rate from the alternator. Also i would be checking the ignition switch it sounds like the ignition switch could be open circuiting.

Hope i have been of assistance

76GTR

I checked the battery terminals and cables they seem fine. I'm not sure how to check the charge rate from the alternator because I'm not really a mechanic guy lol. How would I check the ignition switch? Thanks for your help!

Hi, just had another thought, is the vehicle equiped with a turbo timer.

Regards

76GTR

No turbo timer, it's RB25DE.

WTF why would you pay $570 to repair an alternator when u can get a second hand one for like a fifth of the price

I took the car to the mechanic in Dandy to fix the alternator and I didn't ask them for a price because I thought it won't be more then $200-$250 to take it out and repair it. When they rang me and said it's $570 I was thinking WTF what a rip-off.

I went to another mechanic yesterday and they said it could be a hunder different things and they won't know what is it until they drive the car and the incident actually occurs.

One of my parents friends had the same problem with his car so I'll ask him how he fixed it. It seems the problem occurs when I drive the car for longer then 15-20mins, as if something heats up and I can't start the car until it cools down?

76gtr, i have a similar problem, my car stalls intermittently when im slowing down at intersections etc, and i recently had a turbo timer installed when i got an alarm installed, would this be a similar case? battery terminals have been checked/cleaned out etc. but i know the key shaft is a bit loose, i just find it strange that it only happens when i'm coming down through the gears and the cars at low revs.

The car IS idling below 1000, but it's been doing that for a while (just needs a service)

new coil packs and sparkplugs replaced 3000km's ago (started doing it ~700km ago

S1 R33 GTS-T

nothing to do with alarm or tt,

your car should be idleing between 650-750 for a standard or lightly modified r33, 1000 is abit high anyway.... clean your afm, clean throttle body, change spark plugs, check for hose leaks and change your 02 sensor....

Dany, There is two sides to the ignition switch the mechanical side ( the barrel where the key goes in ) and the electrical side ( at the back of barrel ). I would remove the ignition surround trim and check the wires at the back of the ignition barrel also while the car is running is to do a riggle test on the wires ( riggle the wires ) from the ignition. The mechanic is right it could be a hundred diffrent things, it does take some time to go through and check the circuit. The simple way to check the charge rate of the alternator is to use a multimeter positive lead to positive of the battery terminal and negative lead to a good earth point. Have the engine running , set the multimeter to direct voltage (dc) a good charge rate should be between 13.80v - 14.20v.

Hope i have been of assistance

76GTR

Dany, There is two sides to the ignition switch the mechanical side ( the barrel where the key goes in ) and the electrical side ( at the back of barrel ). I would remove the ignition surround trim and check the wires at the back of the ignition barrel also while the car is running is to do a riggle test on the wires ( riggle the wires ) from the ignition. The mechanic is right it could be a hundred diffrent things, it does take some time to go through and check the circuit. The simple way to check the charge rate of the alternator is to use a multimeter positive lead to positive of the battery terminal and negative lead to a good earth point. Have the engine running , set the multimeter to direct voltage (dc) a good charge rate should be between 13.80v - 14.20v.

Hope i have been of assistance

76GTR

I've got a voltage meter in the car I just checked it's on 13.9v. I'll check the wires at the ignition switch tomorrow since it's dark now and let you know how it went. Thanks for your help again. I appreciate it.

  • 2 weeks later...

Update.

I've changed the ignition switch with a new one but the car died again a few days later and would not start again. I called an electrician guy I know and it turns out that at the back of the immobilizer circuit board one of the solder has melted/burned off. That's what the problem was.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...