Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I cant get the rear wheel alignment bars off the hub assembly. the bars that connect to the hicas. i have removed the pin and nut and wound the rods in, bashed it with a hammer from all different angle including moving the hub assembly up n down with a jack, removed the rod totally from the hicas even and i still cant get it of. also tried soaking it in inox and then again all the above... both sides just wont budge off the shaft.

anyone got any tips?

Are you talking about removing the ball joints at the end of the alignment rods from the hub? If so you need a puller like this;

gallery_15274_2902_7906.png

Those ball joints are called tie rod ends. The alignment rods are tie rods.

you can also get the off using a "ball joint seperator" a big fork that you shove under the end of the arm and smash with a hammer until it pops off. It can take some real heavy hits to free it up.

if you have been whacking the threaded rod end to try and push it back through the arm you have probably stuffed the ball joint :( if you are going to fit the end of a threaded rod you should always put at least a nut on it to spread out the force

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...