Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone.

I just recently got my new 34 GT from top secret imports in blacktown. When i test drove it before compliance it was an awesome machine. Gearbox was fine from 1st to 5th.

After waiting close to 3 weeks for compliance and rego i get the car back take it for a drive to get some petrol and on the way home changing into 4th at about 4000rpm or above no matter how hard i push the clutch into the ground it crunches in 4th and 5th.

at lower revs it pops into 4th but still crunches into 5th no matter wat. I think since compliance they have stuffed up the sychros so I have since taken the car back and they are looking into it but i thought i might do some asking around to see if anyone has had a similar problem. (tried a search nothin specific enough).

Anyways my questions are,

What could they have messed up with on compliance?

Was it just not put back together properly so the clutch doesnt release the gear properly?

and why wouldnt this affect the other 3 gears?

Anything would help give me some piece of mind.. Been nothing but a headache since i started compliance and i dont want to think i have bought a bodgey skyline after drivin it so nicely before.. Lost the car for another 4 days too :P

And may as well ask while im here.. what does this sticker mean.. its like a green clock with the 3 highlighted and some writing around it

post-51757-1224921249_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241686-r34-gearbox-drama/
Share on other sites

Parking permit???

Im sure someone took it for a thrash before pickup; basically downchanging hard and snapping gears *no f*kkkkn respect for other peoples property*

Cmon how many times have we heard of mechanics and apprentices writing off cars? I know a few and the stories are all the same.

What could they have messed up with on compliance?

Was it just not put back together properly so the clutch doesnt release the gear properly?

and why wouldnt this affect the other 3 gears?

yeah sounds like it's a synchro issue.

Would they even touch the gearbox in compliancing?

Hope you sort it out

My 34 does this also, and has for the last 2 years. I don't think its a major issue so haven't worried about it too much as its not getting worse. Check out these threads on the same topic.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Be...gears+crunching

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cu...gears+crunching

Possibly when they changed the gear oil at compliance,

The oil they used may be too thick, if the synchro's where abit warn the thicker the gear oil, the harder the synchros have to work to cut through the oil to mach gear speeds.

I was also told by the guy that complied my 34 to change all the fluids again due to them using poorer quality and cheaper fluids.

:)

Possibly when they changed the gear oil at compliance,

The oil they used may be too thick, if the synchro's where abit warn the thicker the gear oil, the harder the synchros have to work to cut through the oil to mach gear speeds.

I was also told by the guy that complied my 34 to change all the fluids again due to them using poorer quality and cheaper fluids.

:)

100% agree; use redline superlight shockproof. very light and even compatible with getrags which need an auto fluid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...