Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My HICAS light comes on when i go past 100 killometers like on the freeway for example then when i switch my car off then back on again it is off, anyone got any ideas? my car still runs exactly the same when the light comes on its a bit of a mystery and i dont want to pay to get it looked at if its nothing...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241708-hicas/
Share on other sites

My car does the same thing, HICAS light comes on after a few minute of driving ~100km/h.

Do you have after market steering wheel? From what I have read before on here, If you do, then the sensor on the steering wheel part has stuffed up or not connected properly when the after market wheel is installed.

Either way, its probably the sensor(s).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241708-hicas/#findComment-4218046
Share on other sites

Interesting, I had the same problems with a stock steering wheel, but this was *after* the aftermarket steering wheel was removed.

Anyway, you only save weight on the R32's, not the R33's, lockbar is an option (and removing the globe). See the tutorials section if you decide to remove it rather than try to fix it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241708-hicas/#findComment-4218296
Share on other sites

when i took mine out i was quite surprised at how heavy it was...

n.b. do it on a hoist if poss... it was a bloody annoying thing to do from under the car!

when i still had hicas i drove to sydney and after 4+ hours of 100kph driving it then came on....

now its just permanently on and i done even notice it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241708-hicas/#findComment-4218615
Share on other sites

you are all getting the problem for the same reason - the steering wheel is not on straight. As far as HICAS is concerned you have been driving in a circle for the last 5 minutes so it throws an error. You notice it on the freeway or at higher speeds because you are driving in a straight line for minutes at a time

you need to pull the steering wheel back off and put it on straight (the hicas sender is in the boss kit). if the car now turns with the wheel on straight, you need a wheel alignment (a previous alignment may have adjusted for the previously crooked wheel)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241708-hicas/#findComment-4219272
Share on other sites

^^

While you got the steering wheel off, clean the steering sensor too. Mark it with a permanet marker so you know the original position and clean it with WD40, wipe down and hose off with compressed air to get rid of all the dust.

But before that

Check your HICAS fluid and top it up.

If it still comes on after topping it up, do a wheel alignment.

If it still comes on, get your mechanic to run a diagnostics check on your car to try and trace any faults.

Issolate the fault and fix it from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241708-hicas/#findComment-4219280
Share on other sites

^^

While you got the steering wheel off, clean the steering sensor too. Mark it with a permanet marker so you know the original position and clean it with WD40, wipe down and hose off with compressed air to get rid of all the dust.

But before that

Check your HICAS fluid and top it up.

If it still comes on after topping it up, do a wheel alignment.

If it still comes on, get your mechanic to run a diagnostics check on your car to try and trace any faults.

Issolate the fault and fix it from there.

He has an R33, their HICAS is electronic not hydraulic (there is also no seperate "HICAS fluid" to top up in R32's, it runs off the power steering circuit).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241708-hicas/#findComment-4220421
Share on other sites

i have only had my car for about 6 weeks, as far as i can tell the steering wheel is your standard skyline wheel the guy i brought it off had every intention to keep the car as stock as possible so i think it is the origional wheen but i'll take it off this arvo and scope it all out...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241708-hicas/#findComment-4220546
Share on other sites

who would remove it tho? i dont live anywhere near the city so there are no real experienced people when it comes to imported cars, my local nissan dealer knows jack shit about skylines because its more of a 4x4 dealerwould a local mechanic know about HICAS and how to correctly remove it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241708-hicas/#findComment-4233375
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

This happens to me, but ONLY when i drive at 110 not 100 and only after driving on the highway for over an hour (I drive half an hour on highway to get between my home and town every day.)

I've got a HICAS lockout bar and stock steering wheel, but the car does need a wheel alignment, so possibly that could be the cause.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241708-hicas/#findComment-4341711
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
×
×
  • Create New...