Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Drift Spec:

Just do a full service on the car your self.

I.e Fuel Filter, Gearbox Oil, Diff Oil.

And Slap a tube of Nulon G70 in the Gearbox and Diff.

You will be amazed how much difference it makes.

Use Castrol VMX80 for the gearbox, with Nulon G70.

Give it a couple hundred kays to work in then feel fourth again.

It should be better.

If the R33's are the same the fill plug is on the passengers side of the gearbox and roughly centered.

The empty plug is also roughly centered and is on the bottom of the gearbox (duh).

Grab your self a length of general garden hose make sure it is clean and dry.

Empty the oil then put the plug back in (duh) before filling :D

Feed the hose from your engine bay under the car following the exhaust and then put the hose in to the fill hole.

Fill her up from your engine bay.

My Gearbox takes roughly 2 ltr's of oil so I would shove 1ltr in then the Nulon G70 then the other ltr.

Castrol VMX80 is very good but if you want they (AutoBarn) will point you in the direction of Mutol Gearbox oil which is very expensive but does basically the same job just probably a little better maybe?!?!?!

Guest Timbo R33

It costs a bitmore than 700-1000 for a rebuild, trust me ya better off paying for a 2nd hand box and using that unless ya car is putting out some serious grunt!! Rebuild with factory parts is $3000 roughly - depends on who is doing it. If ya want one with race parts, I highly suggest you call somebody who does them, lets just say you wont be getting much back from $5000 if ya lucky and getting mates rates!!

Lets jsut say after calling a lot of places around.. Ive decided "box is good!!" :cool:

i just did a service and i used castrol syntrax 75w-90 full synthetic gearbox oil and a tube of nulon G70. the syntrax is a ****loads better than the vmx80 and cost about triple the price. Not as expensive as redline which was way too dear $140 for 1 gallon/ 3.7L. I must say that the box is sooo much smoother now even in the morning. Give it a go you will not regret it.

You guys have proven that additives do work through trial and error. However I was talking to Steve Cramp (Drifty you may want to call him at Manta Racing) and he claimed that it is not a good idea. From memory it was to do with the fact that the synchros require a certain amount of friction to change properly.

I cant remember exactly what he said however Food for thought.

Akira - FYI - The GTS25-t gearset is identical (internally) to the GTR. Obviously the transfer case etc etc aren't there, but strength wise, they're the same.

Double synchro's on 1st->3rd, and only singles on 4th and 5th... 4th seems the most common to go.

You've either got to be a really bad driver (who crunches alot), or have a *****load of power (and wearing slicks) to break one of these suckers...

matt

Originally posted by akira

Has anyone here rebuilt their gearboxes with strengthened gears etc?

Can GTR internals be used and is this is a good idea?

Any info appreciated before my 5 speed box is installed:cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
    • That's incorrect. We have 4 seasons, consisting of pre winter, winter, post winter and a small glimpse of hope! 
×
×
  • Create New...