Jump to content
SAU Community

First Dyno Run 159.5kw.... (hot Day, Excuse)

Kujotk

By Kujotk,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

need some help with this dyno graph,,,, i have no idea what its saying lol, i can work out 159.5rwkw was maximum run. does motive force mean torque? so does that mean im pushing 400nm? can somebody explain the rest of it and my graph aswell?

Is there anything wrong with the graph?

also only mods are pod and 3 inch turbo back..... 30-35degree temps on the day, are these good results for the situation?????

cheers

DrewII Community Regular

DrewII

Posted
Posted

right on for those mods.

need some help with this dyno graph,,,, i have no idea what its saying lol, i can work out 159.5rwkw was maximum run. does motive force mean torque? so does that mean im pushing 400nm? can somebody explain the rest of it and my graph aswell?

Is there anything wrong with the graph?

also only mods are pod and 3 inch turbo back..... 30-35degree temps on the day, are these good results for the situation?????

cheers

MZTRBO Experienced

MZTRBO

Posted
Posted

Just for reference sake, my mate had similar mods but with front mount ic, pod and exhaust and made 198rwkw on the same dyno. I think he had an safc or they done something with the standard ecu.

and he was running 12psi.

Just noticed your running the completely standard boost settings going from 5psi to 7psi. So that power is right on for your boost and mods.

Cheers

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
lol what a newbie must this operater be to make a simple mistake like that haha

hahahah yeah it was on the jem dyno day, they only just got that dyno in and didnt know how to do some of the features or change them..... hell it took me a week and a half to get the print out lol....

but with the graph itself is there anything dangerous or can it be improved or spmething....????

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted
but with the graph itself is there anything dangerous or can it be improved or spmething....????

Yes you're making 160kw. that kind of power could hurt if you got your finger caught in it!

the dyno graph on its own doesn't suggest anything is wrong, the power curve could be smoother but that's standard management for you. They didn't graph AFRs for you so without knowing how rich it's running we can't comment about any gains to be had there.

I think your next mod is a bleed valve for 10psi and an ECU change to get a proper tune (you'll certainly need it if you go more than 10psi anyway)

(btw dude no need to bump your post after 4 hours, the forum doesn't exist just for you!)

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
(btw dude no need to bump your post after 4 hours, the forum doesn't exist just for you!)

lol sorry kinks

thanlks for your help though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...