Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Chris, is this the same Xanavi screen that's in the S2 stageas? My wife's got one (works great, aside from the japanese writing) in her stag and i'm trying to find out if i can replace the MD player that's in the din below it, with a dvd headunit and output to the Xanavi screen? We want to keep the screen for the climate control setup, so figured we might as well kill two birds with one stone.

  • 2 weeks later...

sorry if this has been covered already but just was after some definite answers...

I have the Xanavi unit in my R34.

mine pops up automatically when car is started, I have blue screen with Japanese writing.

I also have the original operating disc.

is there any way to have the TV working how it stands currently?

if so does anyone know how to do this?

to get it working would I have to add a separate DVD player to link to it? (didn't really wanna do that as there is the room issue)

if there is an easy fix would someone be able to help me out with instructions or would I have to take it somewhere to be looked at?

what sort of costs would be involved?

also i'm in Brisbane

I opened my xanavi unit a few months ago and found out the issue, pooor surface mount components. I would warrant a guess at this being the cause of a lot of other peoples issues where the units are random as. Basically replaced most of the caps and tried to resolder what ever else. Tried it out after that and it pops up reliably now although theres still other issues. Most likely related to the board, you could literally grab and pull off what ever you wanted. :blink:

I opened my xanavi unit a few months ago and found out the issue, pooor surface mount components. I would warrant a guess at this being the cause of a lot of other peoples issues where the units are random as. Basically replaced most of the caps and tried to resolder what ever else. Tried it out after that and it pops up reliably now although theres still other issues. Most likely related to the board, you could literally grab and pull off what ever you wanted. :laugh:

The ability to solder Surface Mount Devices(SMD) is way beyond most of the people in these forums, and static or overheating soldering might fry something else

I have a ISO certificate for electronic repairs and its not as easy to do it right as it might seem ? if you want them to work when done...lol

plus you can waste a lot of time and money on parts you dont need to replace on a board... do you expect forum users to have access to oscilloscopes etc ?

once again, dont attempt something unless your certain of your skill levels , a lot of car interfaces control more then just the radio these days...!!!!

dont cry to me when you fry your cars computer with a 1 dollar simple power tester... the guy at cheap as chips sold you...and said it would work...lol

  • 1 month later...

haha sapphire by no means did i recommend other people attemp to solder components inside the xanavi unit. :cool: I work in IT/Electronics and have no issues with soldering SMD, and having access to sillyscopes.

TBH after the caps were soldered back on i tested it and like i said the screen was ok although i had another look and even more stuff was LITERALLY comming off the board and i really saw no reason to sit there soldering the IC's back on it was just a waste of time. The 34 has a whole new system in it now any way (although i have retained the standard xanavi headunit and screen up the top to keep it looking standard) :(

  • 3 months later...

for those interested. have found a DROP IN replacement screen. unplug yours and wire this into place. gives reverse camera and two video inputs.

30330_436918354941_187393709941_5679217_2390303_n.jpg

fits neatly into the stock hole and pops the screen up when you hit reverse :)

(stock unit is on the left.)

  • 3 months later...
Mines f**ked aswell, it comes up with that aqua/blue screen with the two boxes one yellow the other white with Japanese in it. I half translated one box, the first word is Program (thanks highschool Japanese). I'd love to get it fixed as it always opened when the ignition is turned on and none of the buttons work while its like this, however sometimes it beeps and then goes back to the normal NISSAN screen with the grey background and works for a little bit, then just goes back to that blue screen.

If I can't find anyone to fix it or point me in the right direction and i'll try fix it myself I'm gonna rip the bugger out and put the GTT tachos in there.

Once the screen is at this stage can it be fixed at all?

well today driving along, not touching anything or fiddling with anything, the screen decides to pop up first time ever since i got it a year ago, and i get the blue and yellow screen for a while it beeps, goes blank for 2 seconds and shows the blue and yellow screen exactly like the quoted posts picture, does that mean my screen is stuffed completely or is there a hope i can at least get cd to work on it? the cd unit that came with the unit, can open and close the screen but no other buttons work.

  • 1 month later...

alright so i am a bit late to this but i have the same problem sort of.

i have the same stock pop up display, but it all works well(even have an 08-09 xanavi sat nav disc for japan)

since im in sydney it seems that it would difficult to find someone who could actually do the work, but im wondering if a dvd reciever such as this jvc one would fix the problem of no cd/radio/dvd. i can live without sat nav

http://www.jvc-australia.com/JVC/client/c_...&prodID=480 model - KD-DV4506

thanks

Edited by da_supax

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...