Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been searching for things to throw into my r33 gtst series 2 and every web based search i make there is a larger throttle body i can put onto my car,,,, ebay is full of them and here is a link so you guys know what i'm talking about...

http://sydney.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-for-Sa...QQAdIdZ83573567

my questions are...... are these worth the money???

.... is there any real gain over the stock one????

... has anybody had good results after buying one of these "universal" type throttle bodies???

... how easy are they to install???

or is it something worth waiting untill i get a new plenum and match them up????

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242556-80mm-throttle-body/
Share on other sites

man unless ur gona change ur unlet manifold i rekon personally that a bigger throttle body does nothin, maybe a louder induction noise. Its liek puttin water in a funnel u but the bottom bit is the same size, all it will do is hold more capicty but flow the same if that makes sence.

wait until you upgrade your plenum,

then buy a throttle body that is the apporpirate/reccomended size.

the plenum will probably come with a throttle body, alot of manufactures sell them as a kit with all the required ancillaries.

i think if you have done little to no mods on your car it would be a wast of money and time,plus you engine response will be down , if you running say 400 + hp then give it a go with a 90mm q45

Edited by WARLORD

yep plazmamans comes as a kit (for the neo head anyway, thats all ive been looking at) about $1.3k, for plenum and t/b, uses standard cables and sensors etc. (their website is pretty good, fair bit of info on their)

always prefer buying aussie made when its appropriate

You won't need to upgrade until you do your plenum... then i would use a Q45 TB, i got one of the ebay/universal TB's and it stuck open at rev's so u needed to give the throttle a stab to release it (not a good thing in a 450hp car). Also it wouldn't shut enough on 0% throttle so it would idle on about 1300rpm, and u need to get a flange welded on so when it gives u the Sh)ts u have to cut it off and try not to destroy ur plenum... then u'll just go spend $160 on a Q45 TB anyway.... so they are a waste of money,

Just my 2c on the matter lol....

waste of time and money, if you can show me that your stock throttlebody is causing a significant pressure drop at mild to medium power levels i will buy it for you, how's that?

you will end up with a touchy throttle at initial opening and doughy as it gets towards wot.

Edited by RB30-POWER
  • 3 months later...

big bump also been reading up but no1 can tell for certain where the stock throttle body starts to become restriction. some people say 250 others go 350 others go theres no restriction.

anyone know how hard it is to get a q45 on a plazmaman manifold?

aiming for 320+ so im guessing might aswell be safe and upgrade.

Stock manifold & throttlebody on my 30 (they are off an R32 RB25DE), made 365rwkw in the previous car they were in - we think that they were a restriction at that point. Same turbos are on a new 30 (but with a 25DET head) with a GReddy intake manifold and q45 t/b, made 395awkw @ 2psi less boost. (Original car was a rwd, new car is 4wd).

I would say that is about the level the stock manifold and throttlebody are good for :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...