Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI All ,

my car is a r34 GTT

hopefully you guys will be able to provide some insight to this issue for me.

ok i went to the shops before car started fine with no issues drove fine no issues.

but when i came back from getting some milk unlocked my car , turned the key nothing at all could hear the fuel , no starter motor nosie , no clicks , ticks motor not turning over?

all electronics are working battery is only a week and abit old , i also tried to jump starting it , no luck :)

thought possible my immobilizer was not disengaging , but i was able to push start it with no issues.

able to drive home car was running good. i went to try to start it again after i got home , NO LUCK same thing again turn the key nothing but the electronics and fuel ?

any help or ideas would be great

thank you kurtis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242578-starting-issues-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

A common problem amongst old car's is that the starter motor doesnt work when engine is hot.

"he heat generated in the starter by the engine and the exhaust pipes (sometimes) causes the armature to expand. If the bearings are worn then the armature drags (actually contacts) on the stator causing a short circuit and a high friction drag. Sometimes just replacing the bearings can fix the problem. "

Although your car is quite new, im having doubts that it could be the starter motor?

See if the problem only occurs once the engine is hot? Best to take down to an auto electrician and ask for a free alternator/starter motor/battery check-up. :ninja:

  • 10 years later...
On 10/30/2008 at 11:22 PM, KURTIS34 said:

HI All ,

my car is a r34 GTT

hopefully you guys will be able to provide some insight to this issue for me.

ok i went to the shops before car started fine with no issues drove fine no issues.

but when i came back from getting some milk unlocked my car , turned the key nothing at all could hear the fuel , no starter motor nosie , no clicks , ticks motor not turning over?

all electronics are working battery is only a week and abit old , i also tried to jump starting it , no luck :)

thought possible my immobilizer was not disengaging , but i was able to push start it with no issues.

able to drive home car was running good. i went to try to start it again after i got home , NO LUCK same thing again turn the key nothing but the electronics and fuel ?

any help or ideas would be great

thank you kurtis

Was this ever resolved? I am having the exact same issue in my r34 gt right now.. I drove it perfect this morning to the shops. Got back in and nothing when I turned the key. 

Try to start it with a 50c piece direct onto the solenoid terminal from the main cable (at the starter motor itself).  If it will crank there, then you have a problem with wiring between there and the ignition switch.  If it won't, give it a whack with a soft face hammer or a lump of wood and see if it will crank after that.  If it will, then the solenoid is sticky, which probably means full of clutch dust, but it could just be warm.  Finally, they can get grumpy when hot, when they get old.  If it works when it cools down, then there's your answer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...