Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking to get some decent tyres to use for the times whan i want to have fun both on and off the street, i will be using 225/50/16 tyres. Currently i plan to get some brigestone re540s, these will cost $230 each and i have not heard many bad things about them. I was also told these are being replaces by a new model, any one know how good this tyre is. Whats everyone else using and the cost, cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24260-best-street-semi-slick-tyre/
Share on other sites

Clint,

I'm sure he doesn't mind me saying, but Chris32 fitted a set of the new RE55S from Bridgestone Gouger Street, 235/17 rear only. They are the next model on from RE540S. Assymetric though so you can't take off rim and swap left to right.

Anyway, he loves them and he was getting good grip in the wet as well. I'm sure he'll give you the low down.

They look real hot as well:

Also, how's the R33 HICAS kit going?

Cool ill have to ask him about them, they are probably not selling the 540s anymore than.

Im getting there with the 33 hicas removal kit, are you going to the drift meet next weekend, if i have something done maybe i could fit on the sat morning.

Still selling RE540S so you still have the choice. Not sure if you've met Greg, but he has 265/18 RE540S's on his R33 and they are awsesome as well, but I think you have used them yourself, correct?

Laurie at Bridgestone has unbeatable prices, nation wide I reckon, so other semi-race stuff like RA-Is or DJ-01s might be better (I dought it) but no where near the (cheap) price of RE540S and now RE55S from Laurie. Go for it mate! Reading the Jap Bridgestone site I think the RE55S is better for everythign but particualrly wet grip so good for combo driving like you want. I'm definately getting them when my turbo goes on and my current rears are fried!

Hmmm, I wasn't going to Drift day but if the kit is ready then would be a double incentive. Anyway, no rush, cheers.

nah i havent used RE540s but since u r talkin so highly of the RE55S's i thought i might ask ya how much they r each

i need new tyres soon so somethin that will be good for all conditions will b nice

these r road legal?

Sorry KamikazeR33 I was responding to Clint32.

Yeah, I reckon the RE55Ss would be better for wet conditions as guys here have trouble with RE540Ss in the wet unless they are super hot or road goes from dry to wet. Otherwise too dangerous. So I'd never put RE540Ss on front unless you only drive when dry. Best if Chris32 gets on here and comments when he has had week or so and with real wet days as he drive his car to work daily.

Unbelievable price but it's the first time Laurie has sold a pair so he's using Chris as a bit of a test. Should drive over and get them off Laurie! Best price in the country :D He has a huge turnover and all the car clubs go to him as well as race teams, so his customers wear out tyres alot:burnout:

Both are road legal.

They are great prices. I might have to look into these Bridgestones as the prices seem very good and Just looking through my HPI Mags there seems to be alot of Japanese circuit cars using these RE540s street semi-slicks.

The cheapest I have come up with here in Brissie is this:-

235/45 R17

Falken Azenis.................$430ea

Dunlop D01J (soft).........$460ea

Dunlop DO2G (med).......$460ea

Does this guy ship interstate? if so does he have a email address I could use to contact him?

Gouger Street Bridgestone in Adelaide CBD, sorry don't have his number but will be in Whitepages on line.

Guys, please keep this info to yourselves in terms of trying to get other Bridgestone stores to match as they won't and might get Laurie in trouble with Bridgestone head office I assume. He asked us (the local SAU and SVD guys) not to ask other stores to match, so if he doesn't get in trouble then he'll get us all cheap tyres forever.

Anyway give him a call, he might be able to help out, but sending stuff interstate might not be his cup of tea.

Yep, RE55S are heaps good!! I managed to clock up almost 450km on the weekend, they were so good I just wanted to keep driving!! As good in the wet, if not slightly better than normal road tyres, and once a little warm they grip like crazy in the dry. Only downside is as Freebaggies pointed out, they can't be swapped left to right - but when i questioned them about this, they said by the time they need to be swapped, they will be rooted anyway, so just get new ones!!

So far so good, they look pretty mean as well - surprisingly they are a little quieter than my previous tyres, and about 10 times quiter than the Azenis semi slicks I had before.

Also, can't get any wheelspin in 1st geat with 200rwkw, unless I dump the clutch at 5000+rpm, even then they hook up pretty well

I can see these tyres breaking diffs and gearboxes though, so you have been warned!!!

Can't think of a better tyre for street/thrash/track,

Chris

Yeah, got them from Laurie - not sure if he'll ship them, phone number can be found on the bridgestone australia website, don't have it handy at the moment

One thing, my 235/45 are BIGGER than my previous 255/40/17's, for some reason the R series tyres are always much bigger?

Chris32, I understand that tyre width is measured at the maxiumum width of the tyre, not necessarily the tread width. Many street tyres have very rounded edges which means the actual trad can be a fair bit narrower. With the R tyres the manufacturers are much more interested in outright performance and so they make the treads as wude as the tyres.

KamikazeR33 R tyres are a straight fit as long as they are the correct width and ratio, like any street tyre.

HKSgtst, I haven't used the Azenis myself, but I understand they are at the more "sensible" end of the R tyre world, so they are not as good as the dunlops or bridgestones for outright grip.

Yeah, your right, but they are much wider across the tread than a equivalent road tyre. For instance, I have 235x45x17 S03's on the front, and the RE55S are much wider in contact patch than teh S03's. Just remeber, that if your car is slammed and your current road tyres are very close to the gurards, then R series tyres in the same width (ie 255x40x17 'normal tyres' compared with 244x40x17 R series tyres) will probably foul the guards - make sense?

Had Azenis semi-slicks on the front - they are Ok but no where near as good as S03 for everyday, and defiantly miles apart from the RE55S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...