Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone!

A few week ago I was looking at this D.I.Y >> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...mp;hl=stop+beep in the hope of stopping my beep - but this method only seems to work on <R33. So I opened up my baby and had a crack - and I succeeded! Very easy - very quick - and no damage to anything - it's just a simple disconnecting of a plug :)

I have Found no Side effects to any other system - I have a Auto Watch emob. and it still works fine - also this will not get rid of the beep for when you leave your lights on and open your door - also does not effect the door open lights on/off function

What you need:

RATCHET

10mm Socket

Phillips Head Screw Driver

Your Keys! <you will see why ;)

(Next 2 items are handy to have close if needed - but not essential)

Flat Head screw Driver (with double sided stick tape with one side still covered with plastic wrapping to stop sticking) < I use this to wedge open anything that is hard to open up - the double sticky tape prevents scratching because its spongy - very useful for when you need to take out air con vents on the R34 etc. as well.

And my trusty Victorinox Swiss Army Knife :)

t_0001139m_6e9c7b5.jpg

(CLICK ON PHOTOS FOR LARGE PICTURE)

Step 1: Unscrew Lower cover

t_0001138m_689594e.jpg

Left Hand Side of Lower Panel (Phillips head screw driver)

t_0001132m_8618887.jpg

Right Hand Side of Lower Panel (you will need 10mm socket)

t_0001130m_fe9c8bf.jpg

Here you will have to disconnect all Wires and thread them through any holes so you can remove the whole cover and put it out of the way

t_0001129m_73ab14c.jpg

Step 2: Unscrew Steering wheel under cover

t_0001127m_64f22cc.jpg

Open the Steering Wheel Adjustment Leave Right out so that it doesn't get in your way - also so that you can move the steering wheel up and down to help wiggle the case off

t_0001122m_be80390.jpg

Step 3: Remove the demand Beeperiser Plug

Your Undercover should look like this now - if not - you have gone astray and need to revert back to step 1 and/or you have the wrong car and revert back to top link!

t_0001118m_d25dda1.jpg

See that white plug well - Now you hear it!!

t_0001116m_559f008.jpg

Now you don't!! - Now just rap that sucker around some wires and make sure the little slider inside the plug is OFF - this is what your keys are for!! Before you go and put it all back together put the key in and make sure it is in the off position otherwise it will forever be beeping :(

t_0001115m_3ee528f.jpg

Enjoy the sweet sweet sound of beeplessness ;) and your stereo when you want to work on your car :)

If you need any help just post or Pm me :)

Aron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242702-diy-stop-open-door-beep-for-r34/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...