Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey Dave,

Just a little problem, whilst installing the kit tonight i thought something was a bit off with the globes. Turns out they sent me a H4 Hi/Lo kit (as it says on the box), insted of H4 Lo.

It doesnt fit into the housing so i had to make a few alterations to my headlights, not the kit, to make it fit.

But once I installed everything and went for a test, the lights started to flicker, what could cause this???

Hey Dave,

Just a little problem, whilst installing the kit tonight i thought something was a bit off with the globes. Turns out they sent me a H4 Hi/Lo kit (as it says on the box), insted of H4 Lo.

It doesnt fit into the housing so i had to make a few alterations to my headlights, not the kit, to make it fit.

But once I installed everything and went for a test, the lights started to flicker, what could cause this???

You got a hi-lo kit? Bonus! Those kits are are almost double the normal ones.

As for the flickering, i have had one other member ask me about this also. Please make you read all of the instructions carefully, there is a burn-in period the HIDs need to go through to operate normally.

Please leave the kit on as long as you can when you first turn them on( 20mins minimum) Drive around with them on even in the day to make sure they burn-in properly.

If you still encounter a slight flicker, run the HID kit direct from the battery, this is to test if the problem is with the ballast as it eliminates interference from your wiring harness.

If the flicker continues please PM me. If there is a fault with the kit i will replace it.

But please make sure you go through the above steps out lined in the instruction manual.

Any questions im only too happy to help.

Got this from the manufacturer:

Troubleshooting

Problem:

In many cases, especially for those cars that have Auto ""ON"" or Daytime Running Lights; one or both light cannot Ignite Initially, Discharge Bulb turns off after just start the car, or even sometimes, bulb just turns off when driving."

Solution:

You MUST Disconnect the Daytime Running Light or Auto Switch ON function immediately before the actual HID Conversion. Due to the Steady levels of battery voltage is required at 12V or Plus before the initial Ignites of each HID Systems; you must prohibit the less voltage draw of car battery at HID s start time. Daytime Running Light is 7V or less power output, and auto switch on headlight is always turn on seconds right before the car to start the ignition to charge the battery, which means Battery is focus on charging the ignition and waiting for alternator to recharge it back to 12V. Therefore, in both situations, battery is drawing much less power than 12V to initially ignite the HID headlight. Please perform the following:

o if you have Daytime Running Light please follow your car s service manual; disconnect the fuse or wiring of Daytime Running lights only.

o If you have Auto Switch On Headlights, please switch the function to Manual Switch On headlights. To avoid further damages, always remember to start your engine before turn on the HID system! "

Problem:

Just Installed the HID system a few weeks ago, everything works out fine with system. But lately, the one or both Discharge Bulbs are began to flickering when starts!?"

Solution:

Disconnect all the connectors immediately. Clean every connector with alcohol. Wait more than 5 minutes (reset ballast Safety Stages Chip) then reconnect or reinstall every connector. Then check all the connection between ballast and factory harness (Power Source); check all the connection between igniters and bulbs (yellow silicone connectors); check your upgraded fuse, they must be 20amp minimum. Remember, every connector have to be 100% well connected to each other. "

Problem:

Melted plastic burned onto the HID bulb, staining it. "

Solution:

Do not touch the bulb at any time, especially when it is hot. "

Problem:

Bubble created by melted glass from a high wattage (100W) bulb."

Solution:

Do not use any bulb higher than 80 watts bulbs in your vehicle. "

Problem:

Both HID bulbs keep flickering and making clicking noise."

Solution:

1. See whether the HID bulbs have been connected to the ballasts correctly and tightly.

2. See whether the batteries of the car is too old or almost empty.

3. If your car's low beam has daytime running lights, make sure to disable that before installing the HID kit."

Problem:

HID turns on then both sides go out."

Solution:

It means the fuses are blown. Please check your fuses box according to your vehicle's user manual and upgrade the stock 10mA or 15mA headlight fuse to 30mA. "

Problem:

HID will shut down itself sometimes."

Solution:

Inside of the HID ballast, there is a micro chip which is used to detect whether there is any potential problem. Any potential problems such as sudden high impulse or shortage of power input from battery or extremely high heat will trigger the self-protect and shut the ballast off temporarily. It takes about 3 mins for the micro chip to reset itself and the ballast will be working again. Once this happens, please turn off the HID and wait about 3 to 5 mins.

Inspection Procedure: Please check the car battery. Check all connections between the bulb, ballast, & igniter. Check the vehicle battery terminal. "

Problem:

Only one light works, although both lights are installed exactly the same."

Solution:

1. The polarity of one side might not match with the stock harness.

2. Fuse might be blown on this side.

3. Malfunctioned parts.

Inspection Procedure: Check all connections between the bulb, ballast, & igniter. Check the bulb that does not work. Check the fuses. Use at least 30mA fuse if the stock 15mA fuse blows. Switch the failing bulb module to the working one to see if the problem remains. If the failing light now works, the bulb may be failed. If the problem still persists, the Ballast and/or Igniter may be malfunctioned. Check the Ballast and Igniter, switch it to the working side of the vehicle. If the problem still persists, the Ballast and/or Igniter is malfunctioned. If HID system works properly, your vehicle connections, battery, alternator, etc. may have problems. "

Problem:

The ballasts make electric noise when first turn on."

Solution:

This is very normal, the ballasts are absorbing powers from the battery to start up, that's why you hear electric noise."

Problem:

HID will only work when the high beam is turn on."

Solution:

This situation mostly happens H4 kit because it has three pong plug rather than just ""+"" and ""-"". Make sure you have plugged those three wires correctly to their positions. Usually the combination is Yellow, Black and Red."

Problem:

HID works when the engine is off, but if turning on the engine the HID will turn off itself."

Solution:

For some newer model cars such as 04 or UP BMW or 04 or UP Mercedes, the cars have onboard computers to restrict outsource components such as HID conversion kit or aftermarket MP3 Players. Therefore, the only way for such cars to install the HID kit is to directly plug the HID ballasts to the car's battery."

Problem:

The HID bulbs changes color when first turn on."

Solution:

This is totally normal. At the beginning, the ballasts are storing the power from the battery of the car. Since the power has not been stabilized yet, the bulbs will might have different colors or even flicker a little bit. However, as soon as the power is stabilized by the ballast, the bulbs will become normal. "

Problem:

The colors or lighting effects of the two bulbs are different."

Solution:

1. The level of the two sizes' headlight housings are not even, to adjust the headlight housings, please check here.

2. For new bulbs, there are chances that the colors are different for first couple hours of burning. The color will turn into normal once after that.

Inspection Procedure: Inspect for damage in the light housing. Clean the lens of the light. Inspect the positioning of lights to ensure both are at the same angle to the road."

Do you have anything for a V35 Coupe 2003? Do you know of anyone that can install them in Sydney? I rather not try to fit them myself...

Just tell me what your bulb type suits your car and ill order a kit for you.

Please PM me if you want one.

What's the bulb type of low beam on V35 ?

My bro had a HID kit on his WRX with (WRC style headlight) that he just sold. The thing is he had to put the lights always at high beam, as putting it on low beam will cause it to flicker (not enough voltage?) So basically he has no 'high beam' because his low beam HID is connected to his high beam stalk position. Will this be operating somewhat similar?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...