Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The lens has a button where you can switch IS on and off.

Unless you dont have the IS version of your stock kit lens..

18-55mm comes both in IS and non IS versions..

Edited by siddr20

Thats ok..

IS - just means Image Stabilizer.

Comes in handy sometimes :)

Im actually selling mine for 125 bucks. With hoya UV filter which cost me 40 bucks.

Let me know if you are keen :(

Well im leaving for europe this friday so gotta tell me quick hahah

Only bought it start of the year!!

Links like that second one - what's the colour version like?

Sorry mate, only just saw that, the colour wasn't quite as good - I tend to find the B/W has alot more depth..

Sidd, great photos.. I should get out there with the tripod..

ok, so i took the camera out last night and had a play around.

ISO 100, f8, 30 seconds

64er8.jpg

ISO 100, f4, 10 seconds

65zy5.jpg

ISO 800, f4, 5 seconds

67ih4.jpg

ISO 1600, f4, 5 seconds

68uv3.jpg

ISO 200, f4, 30 seconds

77zv5.jpg

ISO 400, f4, 30 seconds

78gb2.jpg

ISO 100, f8, 86 seconds!!!!!!!

81fe9.jpg

ISO 100, f5, 39 seconds

84hq8.jpg

so while f8 might be good in the city under a bridge that is really well lit, unless i plan on using 2 to 3 minute exposures, using a lower apeture works better.

also i told the missus about how you said people on the forums said that f8 was the sweet spot for shooting at night, and said that every lense has an 'ideal' apeture setting that isn't always the lowest or highest setting the lense can do, and she said that just because it is the 'sweet spot' as you say, doesn't mean that it will take the best picture at that setting in every situation. and she also made a comment about the fact that you were told that on a forum, and then proceeded to make a rather amusing comparison to how just because everyone on this forum says that if you wind a stock r33 turbo up to 15psi you won't make any more power, that this is actually the case.

*waits for some idiot (who has never tried it, and doesn't know anyone who has tried it and is just going off the info given by 100 other people who have also never tried it) to say that a stock r33 turbo won't make any more power at 15psi than it will at 12psi to prove her point.

LOL

ISO 100, f8, 30 seconds

yeah so that would be a good photo but you'd have to leave the lens open ALOT longer

in your case - (if your not that fussy about quality and dont wanna sit around for half an hour taking one photo) just use auto ISO and your set

ISO is basically just how sensitive the camera's sensor is to the light - so yeah - dont let us tell you want you cant/should do

haha yeah pretty crazy hey - Exposure time : 640 min (5min individual images)

(http://www.astronomie.be/hambsch/namibia06/startrails1.htm)

edit:

so yeah not really just one long exposure obviously - lots of 5mins ones put together but still cool

if you have time the GIF referenced at the top of that page is pretty cool

You'd damage the sensor in the camera if you did 640mins straight off the bat. CMOS sensors generate heat when they're exposed for long periods of time: side effects are 'dead' or 'hot' pixels on the sensor which can't be fixed unless you replace the sensor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...