Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

imho the back end of both the cars isnt the greatest, although the front end of the legnum is :banana:, although generally speaking i rekon gallants are feral

Aren't the front end of the Galant and Legnum exactly the same?? :)

Edited by Iron Chef

how did i know Mitchy would be all over this thread lol, the legnum bandwagon leader :P i like em myself, front is awesome, rear of stagea is wayyyy better lookin though. The leggy is ALOT smaller than a stagea, the leggy reminds me of a wrx wagon size, not really a full size wagon, closer to a hatchback size almost.

Going from what ive seen with mitsubishi engines (evo, gto, etc) they are the most underrated strength engines in any imports. i know the gto guys with the 6g72 reckon a safe limit for stock engine is 650awhp lol. The legnum is a similiar engine setup by the looks of it so i could see it making some decent power without dramas (obviously not that much but as good as rb25 if not better).

Coolie wrote a song For the twin turbo Legacy GT...

"as I walk through the valley of Valley of Death

I take a look at my boost gauge and realize there's nothin there

coz I've been cursing and swearing so long, that

even my mama thinks that my second turbo is gone

but I ain't never crossed an owner that didn't experience it

me be seeing laaaaaag you know that's not unheard of

you better watch how you're talking, and where you're walking

Cause the second turbo's about to kick in y0

I really hate to wait but i gotta though

As the revs rise I see the exhaust smoke

I'm the kinda GT the little rexies wanna be like

Foot to the floor in the night, saying prayers for response

been spending most their lives, living in the GT's VOD"

Legnums are faster stock and with mild mods than stageas. They are lighter and handle better. They are also extremely common in NZ and go for 5-15k.

Heck a manual Caldina GTT will dick most to all stageas.

Edited by GorGasm
  • 2 weeks later...

i'd have to agree with chuckie... the stagea is far better for reliability. I thrashed my car at times, taken her down the drags too and not once did I do my gear box, unlike Mitchy who had only had the legnum a short while and managed to kill it...

So I wouldn't touch the leggy's... stick with nissan.

Edited by StageaGirl

i guess its just personal preference...if ur just gonna drive it as a daily i guess any option wouldn't matter..but in stock form legnums would be better...i'm more of a mitsubishi person when coming to wagon/sedan 4wds anyway..

in saying that don't bring any liberty gt's/b4's into the equation...hate subaru lolz...even though they do make good cars..damn i'm biased

In terms of daily use, how do these stack up to Stageas and Caldina GTT? And in terms of your general service? Recently in HPI magazine, they stated that changing minor things for legnum, spark plugs was a really prob, as you had to remove alot of the cross over plumbing. One more thing, are these legnums more thirsty than the other 2 compititors, Caldina and Stagea? I know Mits has a thing for making thirsty cars, like EVO series.

Both the Stagea and Legnum are very thirsty. The caldina is lighter and more fuel efficient.

Caldina has a ratshit interior

Stageas are reasonably easy to service. Id imagine a caldina isnt too bad either. Legnum can be tedious with things like sparkies and cambelts. Same goes with any transverse V6

Speed wise would be something like Fastest = Legnum > Caldina > Stagea turbo 4wd.

i'd have to agree with chuckie... the stagea is far better for reliability. I thrashed my car at times, taken her down the drags too and not once did I do my gear box, unlike Mitchy who had only had the legnum a short while and managed to kill it...

So I wouldn't touch the leggy's... stick with nissan.

quiet you. :P

the second box has lasted alot longer than the first one!

  • 6 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...