Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok help

where do i start, R33GTR had; power FC, pods, exhaust, camgears....great fun, loose traction a bit, nice low down power

wanted more power, now im running; big 115 FMIC, LINK G4 no AFM's, 770, profect b, custom dumps, nismo pump, and one of the most talked about subject 2860-5's, everything new.

320awkw, tuned for torque, 7200 RPM limit, 18lbs.

got the car back and really miss my low down power. i realise these turbos a more for mid-upper top end power now, but i didnt think they would be this laggy, i think now i should have gone for the -7's? dam

questions; turbos are making the 'cho cho noise' the whole time, not on deaceleration, or holding throttle, like my old ones(standard) did, but now when accelerating, sounds like they are fighting each other, irratating.

engine light on, on full boost

ticking noise from turbos when boost starts to come on (internal wastegates?)

i know these turbos are for around 350-400AWKW, but i dont want to crank the boost, destroy the engine but the car feels so lifeless, will uping boost give me a lil more low down power? or go to the -7's?

good news which i will post in gearbox seaction, HKS twin plate, light weight flywheel, real easy to use, no stalling easy as!

when i started these mods about 1 year ago didnt know anything about modding these cars, so went on my mechanics advice, so please no lectures :P

my mechanic is 550km away so any help would be great on the noises

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243679-gtrrrrr/
Share on other sites

Thats really strange; I would have said your clutch was slipping but having read you got a twin plate.....

sounds like the engine isnt using the boost so the intake system is pressurising like if you were closing the throttlebody. Might indicate a blockage; maybe oil in the intercooler, badly dialed in intake cam gear??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243679-gtrrrrr/#findComment-4246196
Share on other sites

ok help

where do i start, R33GTR had; power FC, pods, exhaust, camgears....great fun, loose traction a bit, nice low down power

wanted more power, now im running; big 115 FMIC, LINK G4 no AFM's, 770, profect b, custom dumps, nismo pump, and one of the most talked about subject 2860-5's, everything new.

320awkw, tuned for torque, 7200 RPM limit, 18lbs.

got the car back and really miss my low down power. i realise these turbos a more for mid-upper top end power now, but i didnt think they would be this laggy, i think now i should have gone for the -7's? dam

questions; turbos are making the 'cho cho noise' the whole time, not on deaceleration, or holding throttle, like my old ones(standard) did, but now when accelerating, sounds like they are fighting each other, irratating.

engine light on, on full boost

ticking noise from turbos when boost starts to come on (internal wastegates?)

i know these turbos are for around 350-400AWKW, but i dont want to crank the boost, destroy the engine but the car feels so lifeless, will uping boost give me a lil more low down power? or go to the -7's?

good news which i will post in gearbox seaction, HKS twin plate, light weight flywheel, real easy to use, no stalling easy as!

when i started these mods about 1 year ago didnt know anything about modding these cars, so went on my mechanics advice, so please no lectures :D

my mechanic is 550km away so any help would be great on the noises

cheers

please note i 'had' a power fc, mow a LINK G4

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243679-gtrrrrr/#findComment-4247445
Share on other sites

hey, i did tell him to leave stock BOV's, but he said they where leaking/not holding pressure? sorry dont no what BOV he put in but said they where holding pressure, piping no not stock, all custom made intake etc

Edited by donkey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243679-gtrrrrr/#findComment-4247517
Share on other sites

both

ive talked to all the best gtr tuners in our lovely country for my big power app and they all say the same thing.

Stock piping and stock bovs are the best way to go on a gtr... changing the piping will unfortunately increase turbo shuffling.

if u want to minimise it, got back to stock bovs n stock piping.

Ben from RacePace even laughed when i suggested that i wanted to run all hks piping from afms all the way to the plenum... stock is best :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243679-gtrrrrr/#findComment-4247602
Share on other sites

both

ive talked to all the best gtr tuners in our lovely country for my big power app and they all say the same thing.

Stock piping and stock bovs are the best way to go on a gtr... changing the piping will unfortunately increase turbo shuffling.

if u want to minimise it, got back to stock bovs n stock piping.

Ben from RacePace even laughed when i suggested that i wanted to run all hks piping from afms all the way to the plenum... stock is best :D

crap i wanted it all left stock aye, would going back to a stock new GTR BOV help shuffle a bit??????? i think it is onlr running one BOV too? does this sound right?

Edited by donkey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243679-gtrrrrr/#findComment-4247606
Share on other sites

going back to stock will help.

ben explained to me that the reason by the stock bovs r the best ones for the job is because they are one of the few bovs that actually stay open under light throttle which apparently help to minimise shuffling

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243679-gtrrrrr/#findComment-4247632
Share on other sites

going back to stock will help.

ben explained to me that the reason by the stock bovs r the best ones for the job is because they are one of the few bovs that actually stay open under light throttle which apparently help to minimise shuffling

just reading in the 'search" seaction some peopls saying BOV's arent the main problem, maybe advance the timing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243679-gtrrrrr/#findComment-4247638
Share on other sites

im just going by what one of the best gtr tuners are saying. thats all

if u wanna take someone else word over his, thats cool :D

just letting u know what he told me... im running a pair of 2871r's -10's so theyre rather large twins and thats the best way for me to minimise shuffling.

just so know u.. im a mechanic and timing wont do anything to avoid shuffling... its about the turbos producing boost @ different stages.. thats it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243679-gtrrrrr/#findComment-4247677
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...