Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Repco still said $117, called aussie auto's and they said $84.95 and conventry said they would match it. So for all the qld people check out aussie auto's for your EL o2 sensor. Hope this saves a lot of qld people a fair bit of work!!

Cheers

Jayson

guys save urself the hassle and buy one at petraject in melbourne, they sell you it with the corect connector and theyre reasonably priced, i bought one for about 120... its awesome, better fuel economy and no black smoke out of exhaust anymore, no running fat, get a new one or ull be up to buy a new one again soon with a second hand one...

ahhh ill go downstairs and look the addy for ya...!! they come with teh connector, just plug straight in... very easy... all my problems were solved after that... very nice ppl too....ahh ok sorry its petroject.... mate im not sure which addy it is, but ill give u their number and u can call em up, its 9873 7006.... and sorry again, it wasnt 120, it was 90 dollars for mine, but that was an r32 one... good news for u ey

I slapped my RB20DET in to the O2 Diag mode and drove around a little just to see what it did.

On cruising and quite a pit of part throttle it flicks rich lean rich lean, it also does the same on idle except some times it would stay on rich, i would notice the car would then pop on idle.

But yer it does appear that the O2 is still in closed loop mode even when boost is only just starting to build so I guess it could off boost balls and even feel a little more gutsy when boost is starting to build.

Any one thought of using a Skyline oxygen sensor? Just had a look at a R31/VL 3.0 ltr type, and they have the exactly same type of plug, so you can just screw it in and plug it in. A lot easier I think!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...