Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Michael it was my car you drove from Ben's shop :D

I'll be keen to meetup with the Stag boys as well, i'll see if i can make it this week, if not next week will be better for me, thanks for the invite GoldZilla :D

And Tony, that's a very nice V-Spec II you have there, very jealous :banana::D

Thanks Eugene,

The VSPEC has been a long time coming & its one of those special Toys that you never part with; It was a one owner car in Japan with heaps of Nismo gear never had any accidents or paint and its a realkeeper so I decided to give it a bit of TLC.....BTW finally got the cooler on the AXIS, no real noticable difference in Power, will just have to wait until the thing is completely remapped. The the reo needed some trimming and wasnt a straight fit with a bit of stuffing around....I'm sure it will serve its purpose during the hot summer months.

Cheers

TT

post-639-1228908043_thumb.jpg

post-639-1228908083_thumb.jpg

post-639-1228908099_thumb.jpg

Thanks Eugene,

The VSPEC has been a long time coming & its one of those special Toys that you never part with; It was a one owner car in Japan with heaps of Nismo gear never had any accidents or paint and its a realkeeper so I decided to give it a bit of TLC.....BTW finally got the cooler on the AXIS, no real noticable difference in Power, will just have to wait until the thing is completely remapped. The the reo needed some trimming and wasnt a straight fit with a bit of stuffing around....I'm sure it will serve its purpose during the hot summer months.

Cheers

TT

How much stuffing around?

How much stuffing around?

Jamhe77,

Like most of these intercooler kits, there's always a little bit of trimming to be done here and there, the reo bar needed some aluminium shaved off at both ends where the intercooler end tanks finish and slots for the stock cooler needed top be cut off so the Greddy clears nicley......now its sits perfectly behind the Bar.

Cheers

TT

Hey Tony, any idea when this tuning is happening AND how much your tuner will be charging?

I don't mean to be impatient, but I am looking at either doing this or having my eManage Ultimate installed and tuned.

Got the money and the unit for the eManage, but would like to weigh up my options.

Hey Tony, any idea when this tuning is happening AND how much your tuner will be charging?

I don't mean to be impatient, but I am looking at either doing this or having my eManage Ultimate installed and tuned.

Got the money and the unit for the eManage, but would like to weigh up my options.

Mate once he's cleared some cars out next week (There was a flood of Porsches he was tuning) ....he'll be focusing on the AXIS, the plan is to pick up my Christmas project which has been hibernating for more than 6 months and then book in the stagea. I'll find out some indicative pricing for you; at this stage I'm waitng for the green light to drop the car off and it looks more like we will venture into the new year before I have any raw info to share.

Cheers

TT

Mate once he's cleared some cars out next week (There was a flood of Porsches he was tuning) ....he'll be focusing on the AXIS, the plan is to pick up my Christmas project which has been hibernating for more than 6 months and then book in the stagea. I'll find out some indicative pricing for you; at this stage I'm waitng for the green light to drop the car off and it looks more like we will venture into the new year before I have any raw info to share.

Cheers

TT

No problemo.

Thanks for the update.

  • 3 weeks later...
Thanks Eugene,

The VSPEC has been a long time coming & its one of those special Toys that you never part with; It was a one owner car in Japan with heaps of Nismo gear never had any accidents or paint and its a realkeeper so I decided to give it a bit of TLC.....BTW finally got the cooler on the AXIS, no real noticable difference in Power, will just have to wait until the thing is completely remapped. The the reo needed some trimming and wasnt a straight fit with a bit of stuffing around....I'm sure it will serve its purpose during the hot summer months.

Cheers

TT

just a question , what type of cooler is fitted to your m35 , cost ???

just a question , what type of cooler is fitted to your m35 , cost ???

Greddy complete kit with piping, I purchased it from one of the forum members for $1K, now with the dollar its probably close to $2K to bring it in.

and for we VIC owners... How often would it need to be re-tuned?

Jamhe there's no need for retuning unless you're making any other mods to the car like upgrading turbo etc., once the car is remapped and performing at its optimum efficiency there's no need for any further messing about.....remember the main objective here is to achieve sensible power gains offering excellent drivability without having to consider wiring up piggy back options.

To answer your question "Still waiting for a slot to book th car in"

A standard BMW 335 twin turbo with no mods other than a complete remap of the ecu produced 235KW at the rear treads....remember that these cars produce 225KW at the fly in stock trim. Now I've heard of other 335's making close to 260KW at the wheels with turbo back exhaust & intake mods ,either way there is alot to be gained just from remapping a standard car.

The XR6 Turbos have achieved amazing gains through ECU retuning without piggyback systems...and this has been the approach that I have opted for once the car in completely tuned with the mods in place i.e Turbo back exhaust & Intercooler upgrade theres nothing more to do other than just enjoy it....right Now all can do is wait until there is a time slot to book the car in.

Jamhe there's no need for retuning unless you're making any other mods to the car like upgrading turbo etc., once the car is remapped and performing at its optimum efficiency there's no need for any further messing about.....remember the main objective here is to achieve sensible power gains offering excellent drivability without having to consider wiring up piggy back options.

To answer your question "Still waiting for a slot to book th car in"

A standard BMW 335 twin turbo with no mods other than a complete remap of the ecu produced 235KW at the rear treads....remember that these cars produce 225KW at the fly in stock trim. Now I've heard of other 335's making close to 260KW at the wheels with turbo back exhaust & intake mods ,either way there is alot to be gained just from remapping a standard car.

The XR6 Turbos have achieved amazing gains through ECU retuning without piggyback systems...and this has been the approach that I have opted for once the car in completely tuned with the mods in place i.e Turbo back exhaust & Intercooler upgrade theres nothing more to do other than just enjoy it....right Now all can do is wait until there is a time slot to book the car in.

Thanks, that puts my mind at ease.

I foresee an possible intercooler upgrade, then roadtrip - already got my HiFlow and exhaust :P

May even be able to convince some Vic M35's to take the trip as well.

gotta say though... it's i amhe77, not jamhe77.

Again, thanks for the info Tony.

Much appreciated.

Thanks, that puts my mind at ease.

I foresee an possible intercooler upgrade, then roadtrip - already got my HiFlow and exhaust :P

May even be able to convince some Vic M35's to take the trip as well.

gotta say though... it's i amhe77, not jamhe77.

Again, thanks for the info Tony.

Much appreciated.

HOPE I HAVE MY CAR WHEN THE TRIP IS ORGANISED :P

  • 2 weeks later...

Just to keep you updated, car will be booked in next week for a comprehensive tune....whilst I'm away on holidays I've managed to squeeze in the cue and book it in as they have 10 days to play with the AXIS and achieve the best possbile results, this will also remove the speed limiter and possibly tighten up shift points on the gearchanges as well.

Fingers crossed should have some respectable figures for everyone in a 2 weeks time.

Cheers

TT

Just to keep you updated, car will be booked in next week for a comprehensive tune....whilst I'm away on holidays I've managed to squeeze in the cue and book it in as they have 10 days to play with the AXIS and achieve the best possbile results, this will also remove the speed limiter and possibly tighten up shift points on the gearchanges as well.

Fingers crossed should have some respectable figures for everyone in a 2 weeks time.

Cheers

TT

Perfect timing Tony. I look forward to seeing the results.

Cheers

Andy

Just to keep you updated, car will be booked in next week for a comprehensive tune....whilst I'm away on holidays I've managed to squeeze in the cue and book it in as they have 10 days to play with the AXIS and achieve the best possbile results, this will also remove the speed limiter and possibly tighten up shift points on the gearchanges as well.

Fingers crossed should have some respectable figures for everyone in a 2 weeks time.

Cheers

TT

YES!

Look forward to the results Tony.

Quick Q though.

If the battery happens to die, fuses replaced or the car is taken to an over-zealous dealership and they do a "factory Reset", will it reset to "factory" settings or to "tuner" settings?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...