Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys,

I've recently fitted a brand new Garret GT3582r with a .63 rear housing with the internal wastegate machined and a much larger wastegate flat added. Fabricated my own Bellmouth dump pipe, which is all mounted on a DMAX exhaust manifold.

My problem lies with the wastegate, Had it on the Dyno yesterday and found even the much larger internal gate was wide open with an 8psi actuator but boost was climbing well above 19-20psi and still climbing. I kind of expected a higher boost level than the 8psi actuator but wasn't expecting this much. Being an Unopened rb25det i am trying to keep it sensible. Yes i have checked to see if the dump pipe i made is fouling the wastegate flap and its not. hehe

My options are:

Either pull the turbo off and fit a .82 rear with an internal gate hoping this will help with the issue but i sacrifice any response i was trying to keep with the .63.

Fit an external gate (38-45mm?) to either the DMAX manifold or to the .63 exhaust housing and hope it gives me alot lower minimum boost level.

Who has encountered a problem like this and what's the best, cost efficient way of getting around this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244319-rb25det-gt3582r-my-predicament/
Share on other sites

Check with BHDave, or search his threads. He had boost control issues with a GT30 0.63 combination. I suspect you'd be dealing with similar issues.

With that spec turbo you'd have to be chasing some pretty big power output, and an 8psi actuator seems seriously underdone. Go to a 0.82 A/R housing and fit a 14psi actuator at minimum - choose an actuator that is close to your intended boost and fine tune it with your controller from there.

If chasing high output from your RB25 then I hope your plans and budget extends to engine hardware upgrades - it will only stand being leaned on for just so long before something gives out.

Keep on it, and keep us posted. Very keen to hear how this combination works especially if you have a manual transmission. Hopefully your turbo supplier is willing to work with you on this one.

It may seem like a stupid turbo choice i know, but i really like the fact i can flat throttle it off the line in first and second and it's just fast enough not to break traction. A 3 litre bottom end will replace this motor once something let's go, Just eager to see how reliable this sort of thing will be. I really wanted to keep the .63 rear housing as i want as much response as i can get my hands on. I've had responsive turbo's now keep for some higher numbers with more aggressive power curves.

Any more info on external gate setups will be greatly appreciated.

yea i assumed the 3L would need a .82...Im not too concerned about that just yet as that's a fair while away. I want to get this layout fairly good first.

Anyone's thoughts on External gates welded onto Exhaust housing of turbo? My manifold doesn't have a large collection area where i can plumb into it.

Your custom dump isnt blocking the wastegate flapper is it?

EDIT: Its one of 'those' manifolds... ugh i really dont like that design at all...

It may seem like a stupid turbo choice i know, but i really like the fact i can flat throttle it off the line in first and second and it's just fast enough not to break traction. A 3 litre bottom end will replace this motor once something let's go, Just eager to see how reliable this sort of thing will be. I really wanted to keep the .63 rear housing as i want as much response as i can get my hands on.

Why didnt you go the other way? Choking the turbo is the wrong way to do it IMO.

Correctly sized rear housing (.82) and then a GT30 compressor wheel (500hp) would be the way to do it... or if you REALLY want proper response, .63 with the GT30 (GT3071/3076 style) - not the GT35!!!!

Then sell the turbo, and get a GT35 when you get a 3ltr. :blink:

They hold value near enough, and with a GT30 - 270-280rwkw... the RB25 you might find will probably last you a fair few years...

So you would be waiting a fair while i reckon for that 3ltr and in turn can go all out with a big GT35 on a full build, 1.06 housing, 400rwkw etc.

Remember the GT35 wheel is a 700hp wheel or there abouts. Putting a .63 on there means your basically hurting turbo output for no real reason (response doesnt count as a reason if you get the correctly sized compressor wheel).

All of that restricting will bring the flow down to a stab of around 550-600hp worth of top end air. Not good at all as you then bring heat, backpressure and other nasties into the equation.

Just my thoughts on it

not sure why it is overboosting, have a good look at the gate and actuator.

there is a jpc vl with 0.63 housing on gt35 running 9's (370+rwkw), so it can be done, just not the obvious choice. (or logical, but who can argue with the results)

the turbo you want would be a gt3076, good front to rear ratio with regards to gas flows, no point of the gt35 82mm front with a gt30 rear wheel. aka gt3082 bad match

Edited by RB30-POWER

Have experiences with an rb25 with an 3582 .63

external gate 38mm, holds beautifully, which just a dual stage bleed valve (no ebc as yet)

Logic would tell you me that if your having boost control issues its from your wastegate or bc.

size of the rear end will just cause lag etc as explained above.

3582 may seem big for a stock 25 but comparing to say a GT30, the 35 may come on a bit later but when it comes its well worth the wait, just an effortless tyre fryer.

there is a jpc vl with 0.63 housing on gt35 running 9's (370+rwkw), so it can be done, just not the obvious choice. (or logical, but who can argue with the results)

So its 100% that the housings and/or turbo aren't modified? :D

Was it done on PULP?

Cause i mean, if people have modded housings and non-standard fuel, it totally changes the dynamics

So its 100% that the housings and/or turbo aren't modified? :)

Was it done on PULP?

Cause i mean, if people have modded housings and non-standard fuel, it totally changes the dynamics

race fuel, modified + 50mm external gate :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...